4PDA2+ Bulging capacitors

I think I've got bulging caps in this mobo. 5 or 6, mostly clustered
around the AGP slot. EC26 and EC27 are examples. This computer is now
suddenly a crash monster--random spontaneous reboots from stop various
stop errors. Increasing instability, which prompted mobo examination.

This is actually the 2nd 4PDA2+ I've had in this machine. The first
had buggy temp readings, and it too looks like it has several bulging
caps near the agp slot. The bulging is accompanied by a beige
substance that flakes off.

I assume this appearance is not normal for these caps. Anybody else
have this prob? I know the 8KHA+ had this problem.
Dave

Antec SLK3700BQE case
P4 2.8 ghz
2 - 256 meg PC3200 crucial, dual channel
Zalman CNPS7000Cu cooler
Antec trupower 430 w psu
Radeon 9600
Turtle Beach Santa Cruz
36 gig Raptors Raid 0
Maxtor slaves
Win2K SP2

Any mainboard made about that time has the problem. And yes, bulging and
leaking beige substance will definately cause lockups or failure to boot.
You can order the caps from Mouser and replace them yourself if you're good
with a soldering iron. That's what I did. Epox will exchange it for a
small fee. There are also people on the web that will fix it for a fee.
http://www.badcaps.net/

DaveL



"Zed" <> wrote in message
news:...
>I think I've got bulging caps in this mobo. 5 or 6, mostly clustered
> around the AGP slot. EC26 and EC27 are examples. This computer is now
> suddenly a crash monster--random spontaneous reboots from stop various
> stop errors. Increasing instability, which prompted mobo examination.
>
> This is actually the 2nd 4PDA2+ I've had in this machine. The first
> had buggy temp readings, and it too looks like it has several bulging
> caps near the agp slot. The bulging is accompanied by a beige
> substance that flakes off.
>
> I assume this appearance is not normal for these caps. Anybody else
> have this prob? I know the 8KHA+ had this problem.
> Dave
>
> Antec SLK3700BQE case
> P4 2.8 ghz
> 2 - 256 meg PC3200 crucial, dual channel
> Zalman CNPS7000Cu cooler
> Antec trupower 430 w psu
> Radeon 9600
> Turtle Beach Santa Cruz
> 36 gig Raptors Raid 0
> Maxtor slaves
> Win2K SP2

On Tue, 9 Jan 2007 18:21:58 -0800, "dave" <nospam> wrote:

>Any mainboard made about that time has the problem. And yes, bulging and
>leaking beige substance will definately cause lockups or failure to boot.
>You can order the caps from Mouser and replace them yourself if you're good
>with a soldering iron. That's what I did. Epox will exchange it for a
>small fee. There are also people on the web that will fix it for a fee.
>http://www.badcaps.net/
>
>DaveL
I can do the soldering Dave. Do you favor any particular cap
brand/types? Thanks.....
Dave

"Zed" <> wrote in message
news:...
> On Tue, 9 Jan 2007 18:21:58 -0800, "dave" <nospam> wrote:
>
>>Any mainboard made about that time has the problem. And yes, bulging and
>>leaking beige substance will definately cause lockups or failure to boot.
>>You can order the caps from Mouser and replace them yourself if you're
>>good
>>with a soldering iron. That's what I did. Epox will exchange it for a
>>small fee. There are also people on the web that will fix it for a fee.
>>http://www.badcaps.net/
>>
>>DaveL
> I can do the soldering Dave. Do you favor any particular cap
> brand/types? Thanks.....
> Dave
>
>

My 8RDA+ that I replaced the caps on has performed perfectly ever since.
It's what I'm typing on right now. I only replaced the green caps because
those were the ones that were failing. The black ones were all ok. The
greens were a different brand than the blacks. No doubt that particular
brand was junk. Just make sure you order the proper uF, voltage and lead
type. Mouser is a good website to buy from. They have a great selection.
I don't think brand makes that much of a difference. I bought Nichicon brand
but all the brands that Mouser carries are good quality. Good luck. It's
not an easy job.

DaveL

>My 8RDA+ that I replaced the caps on has performed perfectly ever since.
>It's what I'm typing on right now. I only replaced the green caps because
>those were the ones that were failing. The black ones were all ok. The
>greens were a different brand than the blacks. No doubt that particular
>brand was junk. Just make sure you order the proper uF, voltage and lead
>type. Mouser is a good website to buy from. They have a great selection.
>I don't think brand makes that much of a difference. I bought Nichicon brand
>but all the brands that Mouser carries are good quality. Good luck. It's
>not an easy job.
>
>DaveL
I have done fine soldering work like that and the main problem seems
to be desoldering. The joints are too small to use a regular vacuum
tool. Did you use anything special? Can't say I'm crazy about
de-soldering wick. I'm sure some googling will yield some answers but
I thought I'd ask.
Dave

"Zed" <> wrote in message
news:...
>
>>My 8RDA+ that I replaced the caps on has performed perfectly ever since.
>>It's what I'm typing on right now. I only replaced the green caps because
>>those were the ones that were failing. The black ones were all ok. The
>>greens were a different brand than the blacks. No doubt that particular
>>brand was junk. Just make sure you order the proper uF, voltage and lead
>>type. Mouser is a good website to buy from. They have a great selection.
>>I don't think brand makes that much of a difference. I bought Nichicon
>>brand
>>but all the brands that Mouser carries are good quality. Good luck. It's
>>not an easy job.
>>
>>DaveL
> I have done fine soldering work like that and the main problem seems
> to be desoldering. The joints are too small to use a regular vacuum
> tool. Did you use anything special? Can't say I'm crazy about
> de-soldering wick. I'm sure some googling will yield some answers but
> I thought I'd ask.
> Dave
>

I used what I had which was a 18 watt chisel tip soldering iron, a spring
loaded solder sucker and solder wick.

DaveL