Asus A7N8X Deluxe

Hi,
I don't know much about computers, but I have a Asus A7N8X Deluxe still
with my Duron 1200. I like to upgrade the CPU, because they are very
cheap right now. There is way to much info for me on the internet, so
what about the Athlon XP 2500? Is this a good choice? I don't play
games very much, but my CPU is way to slow. Please help.

I ahve Athlon XP 2500 running on this board, same one I'm having difficulty
figuring out front panel connectors, see post below this.
You may have to flash the BIOS and make sure you have the most recent
chipset drivers.

--
Kenny Cargill
"Stefan Ulrich Fischer" <> wrote in message
news: ups.com...
> Hi,
> I don't know much about computers, but I have a Asus A7N8X Deluxe still
> with my Duron 1200. I like to upgrade the CPU, because they are very
> cheap right now. There is way to much info for me on the internet, so
> what about the Athlon XP 2500? Is this a good choice? I don't play
> games very much, but my CPU is way to slow. Please help.
>

Stefan Ulrich Fischer wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I don't know much about computers, but I have a Asus A7N8X Deluxe still
> with my Duron 1200. I like to upgrade the CPU, because they are very
> cheap right now. There is way to much info for me on the internet, so
> what about the Athlon XP 2500? Is this a good choice? I don't play
> games very much, but my CPU is way to slow. Please help.

Well, it will be a little faster. (Whether it is a wise upgrade, depends
on how much you are paying for the processor. You can also get a cheap
motherboard, and a more modern processor, and reuse your old video card
and memory. But what you propose is certainly a lot less work.)

You can start here:

http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...Language=en-us

The returned list for A7N8X Deluxe is here:

http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...=en-us&cache=1

Athlon XP 2500+(333 MHZ FSB)(Model 10)(Barton) 1.04 1002
Check PCB and BIOS versions before flashing BIOS!

The A7N8X Deluxe come in several revisions. The "1.04" number is the
minimum motherboard revision. If you look at the motherboard
surface, in white letters it should say "A7N8X Deluxe" and nearby
it would say "Rev. 1.04".

The minimum BIOS revision listed is 1002 or later. There may be
a sticker on the motherboard BIOS flash chip (the chip in s square
socket), and the release number of the BIOS could be printed on
the label. If you have already flashed the BIOS, you may have to
check the BIOS screen(s), to figure out what you flashed it with.

If the BIOS revision is too old, it may need to be upgraded _before_
you install a new processor. But rather than complicate matters,
you can check the particulars of your motherboard and report
back here if you need further help. Asus sticks BIOS updates for
several revisions of motherboard, on the same web page, and the
owners of those motherboards must use caution in selecting the
correct file download for the job.

A "retail" version of chip, may come with a heatsink/fan designed
for the processor. Chips of the "OEM" variety, do not ship with
a heatsink/fan. While your Duron has a cooler on it already, it
is hard to say whether that is the best cooler for the job. (I
use an aftermarket Zalman 7000AlCu cooler on my AthlonXP mobile,
and it stays quite cool.)

It should be a simple matter of installing the new processor, putting
some thermal paste on the silicon die of the processor (being careful
not to smear it on the bridges on the top of the chip). Only a thin
film of thermal paste is required. The purpose of the thermal paste,
is to displace any air gaps between the cooler and the processor.

Be careful when installing the heatsink on the top of any processor
with a bare silicon die. If the heatsink is tilted on an angle, and
is not perfectly flat, you can chip the edges of the silicon die when
installing it. In my case, one of the benefits of the Zalman 7000
series cooler, is it fastens in place with screws, and it less dangerous
to install than a cooler with clips. Some people have used small rubber
disks with adhesive on them, and four disks are placed, one in each
corner of the top of the CPU package. The rubber bumpers help
prevent the cooler from being mounted on an angle. The rubber material
must be carefully selected, to be the same height as the silicon die.
If the disks were significantly taller than the silicon die, a lot
of the compressive force applied by the heatsink clip, goes into compressing
the rubber bumpers. Leaving less force to keep the heatsink in contact
with the silicon die. Fortunately, thermal paste does not require a lot
of retention force, to work well, so this is not a big issue.

What to use for a thermal paste ? You may be able to pick up some
thermal paste, from the same source as your new processor. Every
person has their own views on which brands are best, and the only
product I don't really like, is some of the cheap zinc pastes that
have a liquid consistency. The problem with those products, is the
carrier tends to leave the area between CPU and heatsink, and no
matter what product you select, you do want it to stay between the
heatsink and CPU. I currently have a tube of AS3, that has lasted
me forever. It seems to work well enough.

I find the safest way to install a heatsink/fan, is to remove
the motherboard from the computer case. That allows me to visually
examine the fit of the assembly on all four sides, before installing
clips or tightening screws. For this method to work, the combined
dimensions of motherboard plus cooler, must fit into the opening
of your computer case. I have one computer case, where a crossbar
prevents installing a motherboard with the cooler already in place.
I find there is a small bit more risk, if I have to install a
heatsink while the motherboard is still inside the computer case.

Some people have damaged their motherboard, due to the technique
they use to push down on the heatsink clip. Some clips have a
raised bit of metal on the top of the clip, and it is tempting
to use a slot head scredriver, to push on the clip. That can slide
off, and hit the motherboard. Sometimes the impact will cut a copper
track or break off a resistor on the motherboard. A recommended tool
for the job, is a "hex driver". The six sided opening of a small
hex driver is placed over the raised bit of metal, and that helps to
hold the hex driver in place. It cannot slide off as easily, so the
risk of damage is reduced.

You might be able to find installation guides, for putting on the
heatsink. I found one here, but the pictures are pretty poor in
this one.

http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/cont...Poster_Eng.pdf

Paul

put a xp 3000 in it and a gig of ram and watch it perform holy fast....dont
need anything more,,,,the new technology isnt any faster....i mean can the
net open up faster then i can push the button?
"Paul" <> wrote in message
news:...
>
>
> Stefan Ulrich Fischer wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>> I don't know much about computers, but I have a Asus A7N8X Deluxe still
>> with my Duron 1200. I like to upgrade the CPU, because they are very
>> cheap right now. There is way to much info for me on the internet, so
>> what about the Athlon XP 2500? Is this a good choice? I don't play
>> games very much, but my CPU is way to slow. Please help.
>
> Well, it will be a little faster. (Whether it is a wise upgrade, depends
> on how much you are paying for the processor. You can also get a cheap
> motherboard, and a more modern processor, and reuse your old video card
> and memory. But what you propose is certainly a lot less work.)
>
> You can start here:
>
> http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...Language=en-us
>
> The returned list for A7N8X Deluxe is here:
>
> http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...=en-us&cache=1
>
> Athlon XP 2500+(333 MHZ FSB)(Model 10)(Barton) 1.04 1002
> Check PCB and BIOS versions before flashing BIOS!
>
> The A7N8X Deluxe come in several revisions. The "1.04" number is the
> minimum motherboard revision. If you look at the motherboard
> surface, in white letters it should say "A7N8X Deluxe" and nearby
> it would say "Rev. 1.04".
>
> The minimum BIOS revision listed is 1002 or later. There may be
> a sticker on the motherboard BIOS flash chip (the chip in s square
> socket), and the release number of the BIOS could be printed on
> the label. If you have already flashed the BIOS, you may have to
> check the BIOS screen(s), to figure out what you flashed it with.
>
> If the BIOS revision is too old, it may need to be upgraded _before_
> you install a new processor. But rather than complicate matters,
> you can check the particulars of your motherboard and report
> back here if you need further help. Asus sticks BIOS updates for
> several revisions of motherboard, on the same web page, and the
> owners of those motherboards must use caution in selecting the
> correct file download for the job.
>
> A "retail" version of chip, may come with a heatsink/fan designed
> for the processor. Chips of the "OEM" variety, do not ship with
> a heatsink/fan. While your Duron has a cooler on it already, it
> is hard to say whether that is the best cooler for the job. (I
> use an aftermarket Zalman 7000AlCu cooler on my AthlonXP mobile,
> and it stays quite cool.)
>
> It should be a simple matter of installing the new processor, putting
> some thermal paste on the silicon die of the processor (being careful
> not to smear it on the bridges on the top of the chip). Only a thin
> film of thermal paste is required. The purpose of the thermal paste,
> is to displace any air gaps between the cooler and the processor.
>
> Be careful when installing the heatsink on the top of any processor
> with a bare silicon die. If the heatsink is tilted on an angle, and
> is not perfectly flat, you can chip the edges of the silicon die when
> installing it. In my case, one of the benefits of the Zalman 7000
> series cooler, is it fastens in place with screws, and it less dangerous
> to install than a cooler with clips. Some people have used small rubber
> disks with adhesive on them, and four disks are placed, one in each
> corner of the top of the CPU package. The rubber bumpers help
> prevent the cooler from being mounted on an angle. The rubber material
> must be carefully selected, to be the same height as the silicon die.
> If the disks were significantly taller than the silicon die, a lot
> of the compressive force applied by the heatsink clip, goes into
> compressing
> the rubber bumpers. Leaving less force to keep the heatsink in contact
> with the silicon die. Fortunately, thermal paste does not require a lot
> of retention force, to work well, so this is not a big issue.
>
> What to use for a thermal paste ? You may be able to pick up some
> thermal paste, from the same source as your new processor. Every
> person has their own views on which brands are best, and the only
> product I don't really like, is some of the cheap zinc pastes that
> have a liquid consistency. The problem with those products, is the
> carrier tends to leave the area between CPU and heatsink, and no
> matter what product you select, you do want it to stay between the
> heatsink and CPU. I currently have a tube of AS3, that has lasted
> me forever. It seems to work well enough.
>
> I find the safest way to install a heatsink/fan, is to remove
> the motherboard from the computer case. That allows me to visually
> examine the fit of the assembly on all four sides, before installing
> clips or tightening screws. For this method to work, the combined
> dimensions of motherboard plus cooler, must fit into the opening
> of your computer case. I have one computer case, where a crossbar
> prevents installing a motherboard with the cooler already in place.
> I find there is a small bit more risk, if I have to install a
> heatsink while the motherboard is still inside the computer case.
>
> Some people have damaged their motherboard, due to the technique
> they use to push down on the heatsink clip. Some clips have a
> raised bit of metal on the top of the clip, and it is tempting
> to use a slot head scredriver, to push on the clip. That can slide
> off, and hit the motherboard. Sometimes the impact will cut a copper
> track or break off a resistor on the motherboard. A recommended tool
> for the job, is a "hex driver". The six sided opening of a small
> hex driver is placed over the raised bit of metal, and that helps to
> hold the hex driver in place. It cannot slide off as easily, so the
> risk of damage is reduced.
>
> You might be able to find installation guides, for putting on the
> heatsink. I found one here, but the pictures are pretty poor in
> this one.
>
> http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/cont...Poster_Eng.pdf
>
> Paul

"Stefan Ulrich Fischer" <> wrote in message
news: ups.com...
> Hi,
> I don't know much about computers, but I have a Asus A7N8X Deluxe still
> with my Duron 1200. I like to upgrade the CPU, because they are very
> cheap right now. There is way to much info for me on the internet, so
> what about the Athlon XP 2500? Is this a good choice? I don't play
> games very much, but my CPU is way to slow. Please help.
>
If you can get a 2500 Mobile Barton, it has 512 L2 cache, uses 1.45
stock volts across the cpu(your board won't show that low, but 1.65 volts is
ok), you set FSB at 192 (up to 200 or a tad more), set multiplier at 12.5,
and it'll run at 2400 mhz as slick as a button. Thermaltake fan keeps it
cool, no bsod, no losing cmos-settings. Actually, stock fan will suffice
with good fan-intake in front bottom and rear top of case.
You'll need ram that will run at 200 mhz--good Kingston is fine & Newegg
or Office Depot may have it. Ensure the ram is set to run at 100%with the
cpu's fsb, not 120%, 80%, or any of that asymmetrical junk! Mine's been
running here for 2-3 years. Best-running system I've ever had.
BTW, I've bought 2 mobile 2500-Barton's on Ebay and they do fine on
other systems I have built for friends. Very little diff. in $ between this
cpu and the XP 2400's with unlocked mult--plus they don't have the 512 L2
cache! HTH & good luck. s

nice set up! wish i could get one of those mobiles hehehe!
"sdlomi2" <> wrote in message
news%e_g.982$...
>
> "Stefan Ulrich Fischer" <> wrote in message
> news: ups.com...
>> Hi,
>> I don't know much about computers, but I have a Asus A7N8X Deluxe still
>> with my Duron 1200. I like to upgrade the CPU, because they are very
>> cheap right now. There is way to much info for me on the internet, so
>> what about the Athlon XP 2500? Is this a good choice? I don't play
>> games very much, but my CPU is way to slow. Please help.
>>
> If you can get a 2500 Mobile Barton, it has 512 L2 cache, uses 1.45
> stock volts across the cpu(your board won't show that low, but 1.65 volts
> is ok), you set FSB at 192 (up to 200 or a tad more), set multiplier at
> 12.5, and it'll run at 2400 mhz as slick as a button. Thermaltake fan
> keeps it cool, no bsod, no losing cmos-settings. Actually, stock fan will
> suffice with good fan-intake in front bottom and rear top of case.
> You'll need ram that will run at 200 mhz--good Kingston is fine &
> Newegg or Office Depot may have it. Ensure the ram is set to run at
> 100%with the cpu's fsb, not 120%, 80%, or any of that asymmetrical junk!
> Mine's been running here for 2-3 years. Best-running system I've ever
> had.
> BTW, I've bought 2 mobile 2500-Barton's on Ebay and they do fine on
> other systems I have built for friends. Very little diff. in $ between
> this cpu and the XP 2400's with unlocked mult--plus they don't have the
> 512 L2 cache! HTH & good luck. s
>

"Dodo" <donleo7(NOSPAM)@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:N4L_g.4972$...
> nice set up! wish i could get one of those mobiles hehehe!
<snip>
If you're not afraid of Ebay, they are still available there. s

"sdlomi2" <> wrote in message
news:%c6%g.23314$. ..
|
| "Dodo" <donleo7(NOSPAM)@hotmail.com> wrote in message
| news:N4L_g.4972$...
| > nice set up! wish i could get one of those mobiles hehehe!
| <snip>
| If you're not afraid of Ebay, they are still available there. s
|
|

FWIW, I've bought 2 mobile barton core CPUs off Ebay with great
results (both will run 2300 MHz stable). However, one has to be
careful which CPU is up for bid, some are not actually compatible with
socket A mobos, I suggest searching the net for the actual CPU model
number and it's capabilities/features/limitations before committing to
a bid.
--
Best regards,
Kyle