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agentdcooper@gmail.com
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hello all - please help! I have a brand new system, I have given this 29 days of troubleshooting, and it is my last day before I have to apply for an RMA on my 30day newegg.com return policy for a couple products I purchased... My system will post, boot into windows --- running vista x64 ultimate SP1 and windows xp SP2/32bit in dual boot setup --- once in windows I can run ANY application, video, etc without problem, for days on end == but as soon as I load up a game [and that is _the_ main reason I built this box], my system SHUTS down, out of nowhere! No slow down, no warning, just *boom* power off!!$@# I am an old-school troubleshooter, and know my **** pretty well, but this has me stumped! someone please help a fellow out =) ....the problem is OS independant, RAM independant, _probably not heat related_, just plain has me perplexed.... Games I can start up ANYTIME, and the problem occurs [actually every game I've tried so far]; Call of Duty 4 - direct X 10 and DX9 Crysis [64bit and 32bit] - direct X 10 and DX9 Gears of War - direct X 10 and DX9 Bioshock - direct X 10 and DX9 - I've ran different OSs, same problem [vista x64 ultimate, now SP1 and windows xp SP2/32bit] - I've swapped between, in and out trying each single stick, to using all 4, 4x1G sticks of ram [CORSAIR 1Gx2 TWIN2x2049-6400 R, and KINGSTON 1Gx2 KVR800D2N5K2/2G] - tried every one of my 4x PCI-E 6pin connectors connecting one at a time to my video card --- the power supply is 650watt hec zephyr SLI/ crossfire supported, I figured 4x+12V rails @ 17A/each should be fine for a single 8800 GTS 512MB?? - tried adding 5 more case fans, positioning them and repositioning them, to just currently putting the motherboard/video/ram and all outside of the case, exposed to the cold air in my basement [62degree room temp], on an anti-static sheet and foam, so to be sure its not a grounding issue in the case or something... - uninstalled/reinstalled all different versions of drivers nvidia, and "tweaked" others - currently running stock nvidia 169.44 on vista x64 ultimate downloaded from evga's site, and the current nvidia drivers for XP from evga's site - reinstalled OS multiple times, currently on a fresh minimal installs of both OSs [installed indepently first, now dual booting] - tried OC'n, stock, everything in between = ASUS overclock speed/FSB/ voltage settings... I've read you need to specify voltage config for Vcore/HT/NB/SB/DIMMs with this motherboard and processor, I've tried this using all stock settings from manufactures' specifications, as well as starting from incrementing voltage in steps of .05 increments where applicable - specified memory timings, and tried AUTO - disabled all unnecessary things in BIOS to try and strip it down, and tried defaults, and custom settings.... - making sure all fan settings are set to performance, then disabled -- many differnt combos! :: yes, I crank up the nvidia 8800 onboard fan to 100% via ntune every time I boot :: CPU fan is _huge_ arctic cooling freezer 7 pro, and seems to do a good job :: again the whole machine is outside the case, exposed to the air, so it says nice n cool, with a couple fans pointed at it... - no add-on cards are in the system other then video card, everything else is onboard, or just ram+DVD and hard drive - I've enabled and checked all "event/error/application" logs vista x64 has default, tried using the tool "everest" and enabled logging every 1 second, playing a game, while pulling EVERYTHING, also speedfan and nvidia monitor has event logging, whcih isn't telling me anything either... I am open to trying any other program that may help me diagnose/isolate the issue I'm not sure what to think, is it the power supply, video card, motherboard, CPU, or ram??? somebody please help ='( is there anything out there that I could use to test the power supply itself, and see at what point it shuts off?? it just seems like it would have to be power, heat, or motherboard/cpu related but heat just doesn't seem to be the answer - I boot up and idle around motherboard temp @ 23C, CPU @ ~20-26C, video card @ ~22-26C and I seem to top out at = motherboard @ 25C, CPU @ ~24-30C, video card @ ~28-33C --- this isn't too hot is it? ;;for reference i have some files uploaded that may give ya an idea what I am dealing with here;; nvidia ntune system information output http://nen-tftp.techiekb.com/cooppost/sysinfo.log cpu-z html output (OC'd to 3.0GHz) http://nen-tftp.techiekb.com/cooppost/cpuz.htm example Everest log that captures the power down issue [last entry] http://nen-tftp.techiekb.com/cooppos...-21-40_log.htm another example Everest log capture with power down issue [last entry] http://nen-tftp.techiekb.com/cooppos...-08-09_log.htm SpeedFan log capture during power down issue http://nen-tftp.techiekb.com/cooppos...80317-0001.csv another SpeedFan log capture during power down issue http://nen-tftp.techiekb.com/cooppost/SFLog20080316.csv -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- ;;my PC build as of 2/20/2008 ;; P5N-D nForce 750i SLI Motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...6813131232ASUS Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Kentsfield 2.4GHz CPU http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819115018 CORSAIR XMS2 2x1GB DDR2 800MHz - TWIN2X2048-6400 (1 came DOA) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145590 Kingston 2x1GB DDR2 800MHz PC6400 - KVR800D2N5K2/2G http://www.enuinc.com/m-02g-080-kin-k2n5.html EVGA GeForce 8800GTS (G92) 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 Video Card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814130325 hec Zephyr 650 ATX12V 650W Power Supply http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817339003 COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 CAC-T05-UW Computer Case http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811119068 Western Digital Caviar SE SATA2 WD800AAJS Hard Drive http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16822136195 SAMSUNG 20X DVD±RW w/LightScribe SATA Model SH-S203N http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16827151154 1x - Antec 120mm TriCool Blue case fan http://www.enuinc.com/fan-120-ant-blu.html 3x - Antec 80mm Ball Bearing case fans http://www.enuinc.com/fan-080-ant-001-bb.html |
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kony
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On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 06:42:57 -0700 (PDT),
wrote: >hello all - please help! > >I have a brand new system, I have given this 29 days of >troubleshooting, and it is my last day before I have to apply for an >RMA on my 30day newegg.com return policy for a couple products I >purchased... The way usenet works, and free time working around sleep and work and family, etc, you could easily need more than one day even if we posted something that solves a problem. Get the RMA NOW. You don't have to actually RMA it now, but because you are running out of time you should go ahead and get it then if you get the problem fixed, just let the RMA expire instead of sending them the parts (contact them to cancel it later if necessary). >My system will post, boot into windows --- running vista >x64 ultimate SP1 and windows xp SP2/32bit in dual boot setup --- once >in windows I can run ANY application, video, etc without problem, for >days on end == but as soon as I load up a game [and that is _the_ main >reason I built this box], my system SHUTS down, out of nowhere! No >slow down, no warning, just *boom* power off!!$@# Run Memtest86+ for a few hours. Run Orthos for at least 60 minutes. If either of these show any error you need correct that subsystem fault. More likely, when the game starts and the video card enters 3D mode it consumes more power and this is enough to overwhelm your PSU. I'd have thought an HEC 650W would be enough but it may be a budgetized design or have some flaw or failure. Check voltages with a multimeter if possible. Also do the standard windows things like checking Event Viewer. What exactly does "shuts down" mean? Does it: A) Reset and hang B) Reset and boot C) No reset, just hang/crash, then is there a bluescreen? D) Turn off, then the switch on case front can turn it on. E) Turn off, then PSU AC power switch or cord must be pulled before it'll turn on again. >....the problem is OS independant, RAM independant, _probably not heat >related_, just plain has me perplexed.... > You write probably not heat related. Do you or don't you know it is staying cool enough, based on temp readings? Speedfan is one app that will monitor temps. >Games I can start up ANYTIME, and the problem occurs [actually every >game I've tried so far]; >Call of Duty 4 - direct X 10 and DX9 >Crysis [64bit and 32bit] - direct X 10 and DX9 >Gears of War - direct X 10 and DX9 >Bioshock - direct X 10 and DX9 Forget about DX info, leave out things nonapplicable. Make sure windows is not set to reboot on error (Automatically reboot on system failure). >- I've ran different OSs, same problem [vista x64 ultimate, now SP1 >and windows xp SP2/32bit] Focus on WinXP SP2 only for now. By doing so you reduce the variables and use the OS with the most issues resolved already through length of time it's been out and patched. >- I've swapped between, in and out trying each single stick, to using >all 4, 4x1G sticks of ram [CORSAIR 1Gx2 TWIN2x2049-6400 R, and >KINGSTON 1Gx2 KVR800D2N5K2/2G] Leave only 1 memory module installed until the problem is resolved. The key is reduction in variables, there could actually be more than one thing wrong with a new build and it is best to resolve your most significant problem with other things as basic and minimal as possible. After you fix the problem, THEN add back the other 3 modules and retest with Memtest86+ overnight to reconfirm stability. >- tried every one of my 4x PCI-E 6pin connectors connecting one at a >time to my video card --- the power supply is 650watt hec zephyr SLI/ >crossfire supported, I figured 4x+12V rails @ 17A/each should be fine >for a single 8800 GTS 512MB?? Well it's not actually 4 x 17A, it only means you should in theory be able to use up to 17A from any of them. True peak sum capacity might be closer to 35A, sustainable capacity even lower. >- tried adding 5 more case fans, positioning them and repositioning >them, to just currently putting the motherboard/video/ram and all >outside of the case, exposed to the cold air in my basement [62degree >room temp], on an anti-static sheet and foam, so to be sure its not a >grounding issue in the case or something... Case fans (lack of airflow) isn't it, system wouldn't reset that soon after a game starts. Do not put parts on anti-static sheets and foam, that will cause problems. Anti-static sheets and foam are often deliberately designed to conduct electricity, which is how they are static dissipative. Often it won't cause a problem but it can introduce further problems in some situations. >- uninstalled/reinstalled all different versions of drivers nvidia, >and "tweaked" others - currently running stock nvidia 169.44 on vista >x64 ultimate downloaded from evga's site, and the current nvidia >drivers for XP from evga's site Forget about software/drivers/etc. It is not software providing you have set windows to not shut down on error, and that you then don't get a crash dump, bluescreen, etc. >- reinstalled OS multiple times, currently on a fresh minimal installs >of both OSs [installed indepently first, now dual booting] Forget about reinstalling OS. I'm not trying to be critical of the process, just concise in what can be rulled out. >- tried OC'n, stock, everything in between = ASUS overclock speed/FSB/ >voltage settings... I've read you need to specify voltage config for >Vcore/HT/NB/SB/DIMMs with this motherboard and processor, I've tried >this using all stock settings from manufactures' specifications, as >well as starting from incrementing voltage in steps of .05 increments >where applicable Leave system at stock, and confirm there is no bios setting for temperature shutdown that is set too low, and that the temp reading seems correct (some bios may not register temp right for some CPUs). If the temp seems off by a LOT, seek a bios update. Actually see what bios updates are available either way and check their notes to see if anything seems applicable to your parts. Check your bios memory and MCH voltage. Try bumping memory to 2.05V at most (this with only one module installed still), that is all it should need at stock speed. Try bumping MCH voltage up one to two notches (about 10-15%) after you have added back the other 3 modules, perhaps bumping it one notch now with one module but it shouldn't be necessary. I'd almost forgotten, examine all cards, cables, etc, the whole interior of the system and reseat any cards you doubt, including video card. Also pull AC power, remove battery for 10 minutes and use clear CMOS jumper. Only set minimal required things in bios from then on instead of a final tweaked config. >- specified memory timings, and tried AUTO Memory errors won't cause this (assuming OS always set not to reset on error, which I will assume from now on), but possibly a gross instability from overclocking would. Leave it at stock speeds till problem is resolved. >- disabled all unnecessary things in BIOS to try and strip it down, >and tried defaults, and custom settings.... Don't try custom settings unless/until you are sure of something that needs changed, besides bumping MCH voltage slightly with 4 memory modules and memory voltage some if the modules are rated to use more than 1.8V at their spec'd timings and bus speed. >- making sure all fan settings are set to performance, then disabled >-- many differnt combos! With system running ok till a game loads, it is not likely to be heat as it won't heat up that much more "yet"... but you don't tell us exactly how long, EXACTLY what moment it happens and exactly what you see on screen then. > :: yes, I crank up the nvidia 8800 onboard fan to 100% via ntune >every time I boot Don't use any kind of ntune or other software that interacts with anything. If still in doubt about temps, leave the case side panel off and point a fan at the video card temporarily. > :: CPU fan is _huge_ arctic cooling freezer 7 pro, and seems to do a >good job > :: again the whole machine is outside the case, exposed to the air, >so it says nice n cool, with a couple fans pointed at it... If still on the anti-static material, get it off of that. >- no add-on cards are in the system other then video card, everything >else is onboard, or just ram+DVD and hard drive >- I've enabled and checked all "event/error/application" logs vista >x64 has default, tried using the tool "everest" and enabled logging >every 1 second, playing a game, while pulling EVERYTHING, also >speedfan and nvidia monitor has event logging, whcih isn't telling me >anything either... I am open to trying any other program that may help >me diagnose/isolate the issue > We still don't know at what exact moment it's crashing or whatever it's doing. We have a lot of info about what you tried but not what the very specific exact thing you observe is, only a summary of it not the detail of what eyes see, ears hear, etc. Remember we are not there to know what you see. Forget about Vista X64 for now. It's a wildcard. Stick with the simplest config, a clean XP 32bit installation with only drivers, NO other hardware monitoring or logging or ntune tweaking anything at all. Only in a bare minimal config can you be sure nothing else is causing problems. I realize the purpose for the logging but I mean now, since nothing significant is being logged, tuned or adjusted, it has shown to be of no use and could only have negative consequences if it remains. >I'm not sure what to think, is it the power supply, video card, >motherboard, CPU, or ram??? somebody please help ='( Memory errors will crash an OS, they won't reset a system. We can't be sure if a real reset happened because you didn't very clearly tell us what happens. Description of the fault in very clear exact detail is crucial before anything else. Based on what's been provided and playing odds, it's most likely the PSU is problematic. If you've a multimeter you should hook it up to a connector to a load like at the CPU or video card power socket and monitor voltages while recreating the game loading (or other) situation causing the fault. If you had another less power hungry video card it should be swapped in instead of the 8800, though it would have to at least be new enough that the games are expected to load at all instead of just crashing or erring out from lack of support. Try something more generic like loading 3DMark200(n), see what the oldest version is you load that causes crashing then use oldest version with compatible old video card if you have one. Same applies to the PSU if you have a spare in known good working order. Are all these parts brand new or had any of them been proven working properly previously (but not so old or worn from overclocking that they might be nearer end of life)? > >is there anything out there that I could use to test the power supply >itself, and see at what point it shuts off?? The only way to test for this kind of PSU fault (beyond opening it and reverse engineering the electronics with probing) is with it running that system, since a random smaller load is even less than the system causes when not crashing before loading a game. With it running that system you'd monitor voltages and observe changes just prior to loading the game, and observing exactly what kind of crash/reset/power-off/etc happens next. >it just seems like it >would have to be power, heat, or motherboard/cpu related but heat just >doesn't seem to be the answer - I boot up and idle around motherboard >temp @ 23C, CPU @ ~20-26C, video card @ ~22-26C and I seem to top out >at = motherboard @ 25C, CPU @ ~24-30C, video card @ ~28-33C --- this >isn't too hot is it? Your temps are not correct. Motherboard is not 23C, maybe a sensor meant to measure chassis temp is but not northbridge which is the relevant motherboard temp. CPU is not 20-26C under load which is the relevant time (like when running Orthos for 30 minutes). 8800GTS video card is never going to be 22-26C, not ever (Unless you installed these parts in your freezer) so I think you need a different temp monitoring program. Likewise with the "top out" temps they are impossibly too low with one exception, if your room temp were 62F as mentioned previously, it is possible your CPU idle temp could be 26C. It is not possible anything else would be so low under load unless using very good water cooling. > >;;for reference i have some files uploaded that may give ya an idea >what I am dealing with here;; >nvidia ntune system information output >http://nen-tftp.techiekb.com/cooppost/sysinfo.log > >cpu-z html output (OC'd to 3.0GHz) >http://nen-tftp.techiekb.com/cooppost/cpuz.htm Do not overclock anymore until your problem is resolved! You must first determine if the parts are stable at stock speeds and remain stable. After that has happened, including games, then determine what o'c you can achieve and fiddle with settings. > >example Everest log that captures the power down issue [last entry] >http://nen-tftp.techiekb.com/cooppos...-21-40_log.htm Some of those readings are definitely wrong, but the vCore looks too low for 3GHz operation. Think about that later- for now you should not overclock at all till the problem is resolved. > >another example Everest log capture with power down issue [last entry] >http://nen-tftp.techiekb.com/cooppos...-08-09_log.htm > Please no more logs of an overclocked system. Overclocking comes _after_ everything else is 100% working and is always the first thing to undue when there is a problem like this. That especially applies to the video card if it is also overclocked. On the issue of clock changing, if all else fails you might consider underclocking. Do that by decreasing FSB to lowest setting but manually setting the same memory timings (5,5,5,18,2T) in the bios. This will reduce CPU heat, power consumption, memory bus (keep memory ratio the same), hopefully isolating the video card as the only part still running at stock speed and output. If you do this just be sure you have manually fixed the memory ratio and timings so the bios isn't changing them to more aggressive ones due to the lower FSB setting. >SpeedFan log capture during power down issue >http://nen-tftp.techiekb.com/cooppos...80317-0001.csv You don't mention what version of speedfan but if not the latest (1.34 beta?) try that. Compare it's readings and the bios health/hardware monitor page to what Everest is reporting, you need to determine what the actual values are for voltages and temps since Everest seems wrong. > >another SpeedFan log capture during power down issue >http://nen-tftp.techiekb.com/cooppost/SFLog20080316.csv > >-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- >;;my PC build as of 2/20/2008 ;; > >P5N-D nForce 750i SLI Motherboard >http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...6813131232ASUS > >Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Kentsfield 2.4GHz CPU >http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819115018 If your board has EIST and C1E bios settings, disable these temporarily. > >CORSAIR XMS2 2x1GB DDR2 800MHz - TWIN2X2048-6400 (1 came DOA) >http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145590 > >Kingston 2x1GB DDR2 800MHz PC6400 - KVR800D2N5K2/2G >http://www.enuinc.com/m-02g-080-kin-k2n5.html > >EVGA GeForce 8800GTS (G92) 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 Video Card >http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814130325 > >hec Zephyr 650 ATX12V 650W Power Supply >http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817339003 Given the short amount of time you have left to troubleshoot, I would go to a local store (one with a good return policy) and pick up a different PSU to test with. If that is impossible, at least strip the system down to bare minimum parts (1 memory module no other cards, no optical drive, underclocked FSB, etc) and try same games that crash. Are there any remotely modern (3D) games you can load that don't crash? > >COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 CAC-T05-UW Computer Case >http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811119068 > >Western Digital Caviar SE SATA2 WD800AAJS Hard Drive >http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16822136195 > >SAMSUNG 20X DVD±RW w/LightScribe SATA Model SH-S203N >http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16827151154 > >1x - Antec 120mm TriCool Blue case fan >http://www.enuinc.com/fan-120-ant-blu.html > >3x - Antec 80mm Ball Bearing case fans >http://www.enuinc.com/fan-080-ant-001-bb.html I don't understand with only one day left to RMA, why you are still overclocking. I realize you may want to overclock, maybe it was the whole point of the parts but even so, to have successful overclock the parts have to prove themselves 100% stable before overclocked. |
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agentdcooper@gmail.com
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Thanks for the reply! Any help is good help, the more brains the
better =) > The way usenet works, and free time working around sleep and > work and family, etc, you could easily need more than one > day even if we posted something that solves a problem. > > Get the RMA NOW. You don't have to actually RMA it now, but > because you are running out of time you should go ahead and > get it then if you get the problem fixed, just let the RMA > expire instead of sending them the parts (contact them to > cancel it later if necessary). excellent suggestion, this is exactly what I did today! thank-you newegg! RMA'n memory [1 was DOA, but have to replace @ same time], the video card and PSU. I am going with replacements for RAM and video card, but requesting refund on the PSU -- I am going to replace the hec Zypher 650W PSU for this instead = http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817341010 -- it's an OCZ StealthXStream OCZ600SXS 600W Power Supply, reviews are good, sounds like well-built PSU, I was very hesitant in the first place to buy the hec PSU, but we shall see if it was the source of the trouble... > Run Memtest86+ for a few hours. Run Orthos for at least 60 > minutes. If either of these show any error you need correct > that subsystem fault. More likely, when the game starts and > the video card enters 3D mode it consumes more power and > this is enough to overwhelm your PSU. I'd have thought an > HEC 650W would be enough but it may be a budgetized design > or have some flaw or failure. Check voltages with a > multimeter if possible. Everest stability tests, ATI Tool stability tests, and ntune stability tests have been run, nothing seems to knock the computer off-line except starting up ANY game, sometimes I can play a game for 2mins, then iit powers the system off. when I say "powers the system off", I mean it just shuts down with no warning, to an OFF state - I have to push the power button, the screen just goes black, all fans stop - no blue screen or warning. > Also do the standard windows things like checking Event > Viewer. Event viewer just says the game took over desktop manager, then ends there -- not much use, I turned on ALL reporting/verbosity(sp?), with 1second updates > What exactly does "shuts down" mean? Does it: > > A) Reset and hang > B) Reset and boot > C) No reset, just hang/crash, then is there a bluescreen? > D) Turn off, then the switch on case front can turn it on. > E) Turn off, then PSU AC power switch or cord must be > pulled before it'll turn on again. D. > You write probably not heat related. Do you or don't you > know it is staying cool enough, based on temp readings? > Speedfan is one app that will monitor temps. idle motherboard temp @ 23C, idle CPU @ ~20-26C, idle video card @ ~22-26C and I seem to top out during full load at = motherboard @ 25C, CPU @ ~24-30C, video card @ ~28-33C > >Games I can start up ANYTIME, and the problem occurs [actually every > >game I've tried so far]; > >Call of Duty 4 - direct X 10 and DX9 > >Crysis [64bit and 32bit] - direct X 10 and DX9 > >Gears of War - direct X 10 and DX9 > >Bioshock - direct X 10 and DX9 > > Forget about DX info, leave out things nonapplicable. Make > sure windows is not set to reboot on error (Automatically > reboot on system failure). only mentioned it to state I've tried the games in both vista x64 and xp 32bit > Focus on WinXP SP2 only for now. By doing so you reduce the > variables and use the OS with the most issues resolved > already through length of time it's been out and patched. I like this idea too - I tried both OSs hoping more debugging info to read... > Leave only 1 memory module installed until the problem is > resolved. The key is reduction in variables, there could > actually be more than one thing wrong with a new build and > it is best to resolve your most significant problem with > other things as basic and minimal as possible. After you > fix the problem, THEN add back the other 3 modules and > retest with Memtest86+ overnight to reconfirm stability. excellent advice! > Do not put parts on > anti-static sheets and foam, that will cause problems. > Anti-static sheets and foam are often deliberately designed > to conduct electricity, which is how they are static > dissipative. Often it won't cause a problem but it can > introduce further problems in some situations. I appreciate the concern, I moved to cardboard instead, with components exposed to air for me to troubleshoot/rule out heating issues -- basement room temp = ~63F. > Forget about software/drivers/etc. It is not software > providing you have set windows to not shut down on error, > and that you then don't get a crash dump, bluescreen, etc. I agree. > Forget about reinstalling OS. I'm not trying to be critical > of the process, just concise in what can be rulled out. I appreciate the help! very much so > Leave system at stock, and confirm there is no bios setting > for temperature shutdown that is set too low, and that the > temp reading seems correct (some bios may not register temp > right for some CPUs). If the temp seems off by a LOT, seek > a bios update. Actually see what bios updates are available > either way and check their notes to see if anything seems > applicable to your parts. BIOS is current, ASUS shows most recent = 02/22/08, thats what I got. everything is at stock right now. > Check your bios memory and MCH voltage. Try bumping memory > to 2.05V at most (this with only one module installed > still), that is all it should need at stock speed. Yep, been over and over voltage settings... days worth of tweaking! I just don't think it's BIOS voltage settings... > I'd almost forgotten, examine all cards, cables, etc, the > whole interior of the system and reseat any cards you doubt, > including video card. Also pull AC power, remove battery > for 10 minutes and use clear CMOS jumper. Only set minimal > required things in bios from then on instead of a final > tweaked config. done, done and done again =) been over this _several_ times > Leave it at stock speeds till problem is resolved. check. > but you don't tell us exactly how long, EXACTLY what moment > it happens and exactly what you see on screen then. ANY game I try to load, boots and as soon as the start screen comes on, or sometimes it will let me play the game for 2mins at MOST, the computer shuts down, no warning - power off, fans off, screen black - no moving parts... no blue screen, just black. > Don't use any kind of ntune or other software that interacts > with anything. If still in doubt about temps, leave the > case side panel off and point a fan at the video card > temporarily. GPU fan is controled via ntune, by cranking the fan from 35%/default to 100%/custom the GPU cools down 10-15C everytime, it is a precaution I take to make sure it's not the GPU overheating or something, but I have tried this with default/stock setting and with it bumped to 100%. > If still on the anti-static material, get it off of that. ya, moved the motherboard to cardboard, PSU is still in the case, screwed in... > We still don't know at what exact moment it's crashing or > whatever it's doing. We have a lot of info about what you > tried but not what the very specific exact thing you observe > is, only a summary of it not the detail of what eyes see, > ears hear, etc. Remember we are not there to know what you > see. I hope my answers above makes it clearer now... > Forget about Vista X64 for now. It's a wildcard. Stick > with the simplest config, a clean XP 32bit installation with > only drivers, NO other hardware monitoring or logging or > ntune tweaking anything at all. Only in a bare minimal > config can you be sure nothing else is causing problems. I > realize the purpose for the logging but I mean now, since > nothing significant is being logged, tuned or adjusted, it > has shown to be of no use and could only have negative > consequences if it remains. agreed - thats where it stands currently... still with the problem =( > Based on what's been provided and playing odds, it's most > likely the PSU is problematic. If you've a multimeter you > should hook ... no multimeter unfortunately... I am taking a gamble and am gonna return the PSU for the OCZ StealthXStream OCZ600SXS 600W Power Supply , with fingers crossed this and the RAM+video card RMA will resolve the issue. I am stumped... if someone like you can help me troubleshoot it without sending it back, I'd be tickled pink! thanks for the assistance, hope I answered your questions clearly! |
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agentdcooper@gmail.com
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OPPS, I cut the last part of yr message off, google groups had a 'read
more' option I din't see at first... On Mar 20, 10:03 am, kony <s...@spam.com> wrote: > On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 06:42:57 -0700 (PDT), > >I boot up and idle around motherboard > >temp @ 23C, CPU @ ~20-26C, video card @ ~22-26C and I seem to top out > >at = motherboard @ 25C, CPU @ ~24-30C, video card @ ~28-33C --- this > >isn't too hot is it? > > Your temps are not correct. Motherboard is not 23C, maybe a > sensor meant to measure chassis temp is but not northbridge > which is the relevant motherboard temp. CPU is not 20-26C > under load which is the relevant time (like when running > Orthos for 30 minutes). 8800GTS video card is never going > to be 22-26C, not ever (Unless you installed these parts in > your freezer) so I think you need a different temp > monitoring program. > > Likewise with the "top out" temps they are impossibly too > low with one exception, if your room temp were 62F as > mentioned previously, it is possible your CPU idle temp > could be 26C. It is not possible anything else would be so > low under load unless using very good water cooling. I think you are right, I think it's more closer to 70F idle, 85+ under load... but I will check that again with another program... > Do not overclock anymore until your problem is resolved! done. > You must first determine if the parts are stable at stock > speeds and remain stable. After that has happened, > including games, then determine what o'c you can achieve and > fiddle with settings. > Please no more logs of an overclocked system. Overclocking > comes _after_ everything else is 100% working and is always > the first thing to undue when there is a problem like this. > That especially applies to the video card if it is also > overclocked. > > On the issue of clock changing, if all else fails you might > consider underclocking. Do that by decreasing FSB to lowest > setting but manually setting the same memory timings > (5,5,5,18,2T) in the bios. This will reduce CPU heat, power > consumption, memory bus (keep memory ratio the same), > hopefully isolating the video card as the only part still > running at stock speed and output. If you do this just be > sure you have manually fixed the memory ratio and timings so > the bios isn't changing them to more aggressive ones due to > the lower FSB setting. under clocking still causes the problem! > You don't mention what version of speedfan but if not the > latest (1.34 beta?) try that. yes, 1.34beta > Compare it's readings and the > bios health/hardware monitor page to what Everest is > reporting, you need to determine what the actual values are > for voltages and temps since Everest seems wrong. > If your board has EIST and C1E bios settings, disable these > temporarily. disabled in BIOS currently, done. > Given the short amount of time you have left to > troubleshoot, I would go to a local store (one with a good > return policy) and pick up a different PSU to test with. If > that is impossible, at least strip the system down to bare > minimum parts (1 memory module no other cards, no optical > drive, underclocked FSB, etc) and try same games that crash. bare-bones - just 2 stick of 1gig RAM, CPU, motherboard, video, PSU, keyboard, mouse, hard drive, monitor > Are there any remotely modern (3D) games you can load that > don't crash? no, not so far... > I don't understand with only one day left to RMA, why you > are still overclocking. I realize you may want to > overclock, maybe it was the whole point of the parts but > even so, to have successful overclock the parts have to > prove themselves 100% stable before overclocked. I dropped the OC entirely, running completely stock... still having the trouble. Thanks again for your time! |
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baronepicusfuror@yahoo.com
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On Mar 20, 10:33 pm, agentdcoo...@gmail.com wrote:
> Thanks for the reply! Any help is good help, the more brains the > better =) > > > The way usenet works, and free time working around sleep and > > work and family, etc, you could easily need more than one > > day even if we posted something that solves a problem. > > > Get the RMA NOW. You don't have to actually RMA it now, but > > because you are running out of time you should go ahead and > > get it then if you get the problem fixed, just let the RMA > > expire instead of sending them the parts (contact them to > > cancel it later if necessary). > > excellent suggestion, this is exactly what I did today! thank-you > newegg! RMA'n memory [1 was DOA, but have to replace @ same time], the > video card and PSU. I am going with replacements for RAM and video > card, but requesting refund on the PSU -- I am going to replace the > hec Zypher 650W PSU for this instead =http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341010 > -- it's an OCZ StealthXStream OCZ600SXS 600W Power Supply, reviews are > good, sounds like well-built PSU, I was very hesitant in the first > place to buy the hec PSU, but we shall see if it was the source of the > trouble... > > > Run Memtest86+ for a few hours. Run Orthos for at least 60 > > minutes. If either of these show any error you need correct > > that subsystem fault. More likely, when the game starts and > > the video card enters 3D mode it consumes more power and > > this is enough to overwhelm your PSU. I'd have thought an > > HEC 650W would be enough but it may be a budgetized design > > or have some flaw or failure. Check voltages with a > > multimeter if possible. > > Everest stability tests, ATI Tool stability tests, and ntune stability > tests have been run, nothing seems to knock the computer off-line > except starting up ANY game, sometimes I can play a game for 2mins, > then iit powers the system off. when I say "powers the system off", I > mean it just shuts down with no warning, to an OFF state - I have to > push the power button, the screen just goes black, all fans stop - no > blue screen or warning. > > > Also do the standard windows things like checking Event > > Viewer. > > Event viewer just says the game took over desktop manager, then ends > there -- not much use, I turned on ALL reporting/verbosity(sp?), with > 1second updates > > > What exactly does "shuts down" mean? Does it: > > > A) Reset and hang > > B) Reset and boot > > C) No reset, just hang/crash, then is there a bluescreen? > > D) Turn off, then the switch on case front can turn it on. > > E) Turn off, then PSU AC power switch or cord must be > > pulled before it'll turn on again. > > D. > > > You write probably not heat related. Do you or don't you > > know it is staying cool enough, based on temp readings? > > Speedfan is one app that will monitor temps. > > idle motherboard temp @ 23C, idle CPU @ ~20-26C, idle video card @ > ~22-26C and I seem to top out during full load at = motherboard @ 25C, > CPU @ ~24-30C, video card @ ~28-33C > > > >Games I can start up ANYTIME, and the problem occurs [actually every > > >game I've tried so far]; > > >Call of Duty 4 - direct X 10 and DX9 > > >Crysis [64bit and 32bit] - direct X 10 and DX9 > > >Gears of War - direct X 10 and DX9 > > >Bioshock - direct X 10 and DX9 > > > Forget about DX info, leave out things nonapplicable. Make > > sure windows is not set to reboot on error (Automatically > > reboot on system failure). > > only mentioned it to state I've tried the games in both vista x64 and > xp 32bit > > > Focus on WinXP SP2 only for now. By doing so you reduce the > > variables and use the OS with the most issues resolved > > already through length of time it's been out and patched. > > I like this idea too - I tried both OSs hoping more debugging info to > read... > > > Leave only 1 memory module installed until the problem is > > resolved. The key is reduction in variables, there could > > actually be more than one thing wrong with a new build and > > it is best to resolve your most significant problem with > > other things as basic and minimal as possible. After you > > fix the problem, THEN add back the other 3 modules and > > retest with Memtest86+ overnight to reconfirm stability. > > excellent advice! > > > Do not put parts on > > anti-static sheets and foam, that will cause problems. > > Anti-static sheets and foam are often deliberately designed > > to conduct electricity, which is how they are static > > dissipative. Often it won't cause a problem but it can > > introduce further problems in some situations. > > I appreciate the concern, I moved to cardboard instead, with > components exposed to air for me to troubleshoot/rule out heating > issues -- basement room temp = ~63F. > > > Forget about software/drivers/etc. It is not software > > providing you have set windows to not shut down on error, > > and that you then don't get a crash dump, bluescreen, etc. > > I agree. > > > Forget about reinstalling OS. I'm not trying to be critical > > of the process, just concise in what can be rulled out. > > I appreciate the help! very much so > > > Leave system at stock, and confirm there is no bios setting > > for temperature shutdown that is set too low, and that the > > temp reading seems correct (some bios may not register temp > > right for some CPUs). If the temp seems off by a LOT, seek > > a bios update. Actually see what bios updates are available > > either way and check their notes to see if anything seems > > applicable to your parts. > > BIOS is current, ASUS shows most recent = 02/22/08, thats what I got. > everything is at stock right now. > > > Check your bios memory and MCH voltage. Try bumping memory > > to 2.05V at most (this with only one module installed > > still), that is all it should need at stock speed. > > Yep, been over and over voltage settings... days worth of tweaking! I > just don't think it's BIOS voltage settings... > > > I'd almost forgotten, examine all cards, cables, etc, the > > whole interior of the system and reseat any cards you doubt, > > including video card. Also pull AC power, remove battery > > for 10 minutes and use clear CMOS jumper. Only set minimal > > required things in bios from then on instead of a final > > tweaked config. > > done, done and done again =) > been over this _several_ times > > > Leave it at stock speeds till problem is resolved. > > check. > > > but you don't tell us exactly how long, EXACTLY what moment > > it happens and exactly what you see on screen then. > > ANY game I try to load, boots and as soon as the start screen comes > on, or sometimes it will let me play the game for 2mins at MOST, the > computer shuts down, no warning - power off, fans off, screen black - > no moving parts... no blue screen, just black. > > > Don't use any kind of ntune or other software that interacts > > with anything. If still in doubt about temps, leave the > > case side panel off and point a fan at the video card > > temporarily. > > GPU fan is controled via ntune, by cranking the fan from 35%/default > to 100%/custom the GPU cools down 10-15C everytime, it is a precaution > I take to make sure it's not the GPU overheating or something, but I > have tried this with default/stock setting and with it bumped to 100%. > > > If still on the anti-static material, get it off of that. > > ya, moved the motherboard to cardboard, PSU is still in the case, > screwed in... > > > We still don't know at what exact moment it's crashing or > > whatever it's doing. We have a lot of info about what you > > tried but not what the very specific exact thing you observe > > is, only a summary of it not the detail of what eyes see, > > ears hear, etc. Remember we are not there to know what you > > see. > > I hope my answers above makes it clearer now... > > > Forget about Vista X64 for now. It's a wildcard. Stick > > with the simplest config, a clean XP 32bit installation with > > only drivers, NO other hardware monitoring or logging or > > ntune tweaking anything at all. Only in a bare minimal > > config can you be sure nothing else is causing problems. I > > realize the purpose for the logging but I mean now, since > > nothing significant is being logged, tuned or adjusted, it > > has shown to be of no use and could only have negative > > consequences if it remains. > > agreed - thats where it stands currently... still with the problem =( > > > Based on what's been provided and playing odds, it's most > > likely the PSU is problematic. If you've a multimeter you > > should hook ... > > no multimeter unfortunately... I am taking a gamble and am gonna > return the PSU for the OCZ StealthXStream OCZ600SXS 600W Power > Supply , with fingers crossed this and the RAM+video card RMA will > resolve the issue. I am stumped... if someone like you can help me > troubleshoot it without sending it back, I'd be tickled pink! > > thanks for the assistance, hope I answered your questions clearly! > > agentdcoo...@gmail.com Uninstall .NET Framework 1.1, 2.0, 3.0 and any hotfixes pertaining. Then reinstall .NET Framework 1.1 Redistributable (http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/d...lyId=262D25E3- F589-4842-8157-034D1E7CF3A3&displaylang=en) Lame? Yes. Broken? Yes. Works? Yes. Peace. |
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