Motherboard Forums


Reply
Thread Tools Display Modes

Changing Motherboard to ASUS Z68

 
 
Allan
Guest
Posts: n/a
 
      02-08-2012, 07:05 AM

"Paul" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:jgrjug$ll4$(E-Mail Removed)...
> Allan wrote:
>
>>
>> Once again many many thanks for your detailed advice and help
>> I have a little bit or reading to do now :-)
>>
>> Could you please just clarify when I might use the 6 pin ATX
>> .................. are you saying IF the 4 pin was not powerful enough I
>> could use the 6 pin?
>>
>> Thank You

>
> The 2x4 ATX12V (four yellow on one side, four black on the other),
> is for extreme overclocking. for example, on Tomshardware, they
> cranked a D 805 to 4GHz, and the power draw is over 200 watts
> when you do that. A 2x2 connector would begin to overheat at that
> level of abuse. And then you'd want to use a 2x4 and ensure the
> 12V2 rating on the power supply is 200W/12V = 17 amps or more.
>
> In your case, you're not anywhere near that level (yet). I don't
> have a 2600K here, so can't measure the power for you. I measure
> the power on my processors here, by using a clamp-on ammeter to get
> a DC current reading, and that's how I can tell whether I'm in
> good shape or not.
>
> To give an example, on one 65W processor, power stays below 36W,
> even with Prime95. On another 65w processor, it might be around 45W.
>
> Using an older processor (P4), the measured power was actually
> a couple watts higher than the TDP value. But current generation
> processors, tend to be on the low side, rather than the high side.
> The high side behavior peaked around Prescott days.
>
> Note that there are a number of small connectors on the supply.
> There is the 2x2 ATX12V (two yellow, two black wires). But there
> is also the 2x2 section of the 24 pin main connector, but it has
> four different colored wires. Occasionally, someone tries to
> connect that four different color connector, to their ATX12V, with
> disastrous results.
>
> There are also 2x3 and 2x4 PCI Express connectors, but they shouldn't
> mate with the motherboard. (I haven't tested that though.)
> The shapes of the nylon shell around the pins, are to help
> prevent that sort of thing.
>
> Power supplies also come with a 2x4 style connector, that splits
> into two pieces. That type is handy for dealing with an old
> motherboard (with 2x2 connector only on the motherboard), or
> dealing with a newer motherboard with a 2x4. You split the
> connector in two, when you want just a 2x2.
>
> And some supplies, even come with one 2x2 as well as a fixed 2x4
> that doesn't come apart. Usually, they'll all be part of the same
> cable assembly, as a hint they're part of 12V2 output.
>
> This page shows pictures of many of these variations.
>
> http://www.playtool.com/pages/psucon...onnectors.html
>
> *******
>
> If you're overclocking 30%, that would be 95W * 1.3 = 123.5W.
> If the Vcore converter was 90% efficient, the input power needed
> to provide that power level would be 123.5W/0.90 = 137.2W.
>
> The most conservative rating for the 2x2 is 144W (12V @ 6A on two wires).
> The pins might be good for eight amps each, depending on the wire
> gauge used (fatter wire, removes more heat). So even at 30% overclock,
> you're still under the limit. Now, if you start cranking VCore, as
> the guy in that Newegg article was doing, then you might manage to
> get over 144W. But without a clamp-on ammeter, it's pretty hard to
> check.
>
> Yes, you can fit a multimeter in series with ATX12V, but your typical
> garden variety multimeter has a limit of 10 amps before the fuse blows.
> So to measure 12 amps, you'd need a better quality ammeter, or the
> services of a clamp-on ammeter.
>
> My ammeter can measure up to 400 amps. In fact, it doesn't really have
> good "low" ranges. But being a "non-contact" device, I can quickly take
> readings with it (you just clamp it around both yellow wires at the same
> time, and it takes the summation of the current flow). Too bad it costs
> so much more than a regular multimeter. It uses a Hall probe, to sense the
> current flow. Clamp-on ammeters come in AC only, or AC/DC, and for
> computer usage, you want DC measurement ranges. To measure DC
> currents, implies Hall probe technology.
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_probe#Hall_probe
>
> My clamp-on ammeter.
>
> http://www.mitchellinstrument.com/me...8/380947_1.jpg
>
> Using a clamp-on ammeter. When measuring an AC cord, you have to
> split the wire cable between wires, so that only one wire goes
> into the jaws of the instrument (otherwise, sticking the jaws around
> the entire cord, the magnetic fields around the wires cancel out).
> I have a home made "breakout cable" with the wires spread apart, for
> that purpose, so I don't have to ruin any good cords.
>
> On an ATX supply, all the wires are exposed, so you can get the necessary
> wire groupings right within the jaws. On the output side of the ATX
> supply,
> you're making DC range measurements. On the input side (if you wanted to
> do
> a measurement there), it would be AC ranges. For AC inputs, a
> Kill-O-Watt meter is the instrument of choice, rather than one of
> these. Kill-O-Watt can take power factor into account.
>
> http://i.ytimg.com/vi/z-KfZvbjyBY/0.jpg
>
> *******
>
> So if you were doing that extreme an overclock, you'd want to
> switch to a 2x4 and a newer supply with a hefty 12V2 rating.
> If you're sticking to 30%, and not cranking the hell out of
> Vcore, you might still be fine. I pick the 144W number to
> be completely safe, but the pins probably can handle a bit
> more than that.
>
> Damage to pins, happens over a period of time. The metal on
> the pin, goes from shiny to dull colored. This is oxidation
> from heat, or a metallurgy change on the plating. Once
> oxidation occurs, the "resistance" when the two connectors
> mate goes up, which causes the connector to get hotter,
> which hastens the demise of the connector. Eventually, the
> connector will be a charred mess. Just as the computer
> will no longer boot, you take the side panel off and there
> is the connector with a pin or two completely burned off.
>
> I've only had that happen once here. I burned a Molex 1x4
> on an ATI video card. Apparently, the cheesy chinese connector
> on the power supply, wasn't gripping the pin very well. (The
> current flow before the incident, was only 5 amps.) Molex
> have gone downhill, since every Tom Dick & Harry has been able
> to make them. At one time, there were fewer sources of those
> connectors, and the quality was more consistent. If you
> feel a connector is not seating properly, keep an eye on it,
> as it might go like mine did.
>
> Also, the 2x2 and the 24 pin main connectors have latches.
> The latch keeps the connector seated, so it can't "walk out"
> and work loose. That's another way they get burned - a connector
> can work itself loose, and then the pins burn. Make sure the
> latch is engaged, when installing. The Molex 1x4 doesn't need
> a latch, because its insertion force and retention force are
> so much higher (or at least, they used to be that way).
>
> Paul


Many thanks for that Paul .........has made things a lot clearer, and I feel
happier.
Generally speaking (unless I am bored one day :-) I have no intention of
overclocking, to be quite honest there is no real need for me to do that,
but you know what us men are like :-)
I really do appreciate ALL your time and knowledge

Thank you

 
Reply With Quote
 
 
 
 
Allan
Guest
Posts: n/a
 
      02-08-2012, 07:11 AM

"Rob" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
>
>> Could you please just clarify when I might use the 6 pin ATX
>> .................. are you saying IF the 4 pin was not powerful enough I
>> could use the 6 pin?
>>
>> Thank You

>
> The 6-pin connector on your power supply is almost certainly
> a PCIe connector which is needed by some graphics cards. It
> won't fit the motherboard EATX 8-pin power connector. As Paul
> said, a single 4-pin EATX cable from the PSU is enough, so no
> problem in leaving the other 4 pins unused.
> PSUs either have one or two 4-pin EATX connectors, never a 6-pin.
>
> For your temperature issue:
> I have the same motherboard and suggest you go into the BIOS
> and reset to defaults. The AI auto-tuning (overclocking) feature
> usually pushes things too far. Overclocking the 2500 and 2600k
> (unlocked) is easy compared to older CPUs - don't change the
> base frequency or voltages, just keep raising the max multiplier
> until it becomes unstable (or temperatures too high) and drop
> back by one or two.
>
> HTH
> --
> Rob
>
>

Thanks for that Rob.
After doing that auto overclocking I did go back to the BIOS and set
defaults (F5 if I recall) as I could not find a way in A1 Suite that would
let me do it ..................... although in TurboV EVO in manual mode it
has a OS default ...but nothing seems to happen when I click on it :-(

As I said to Paul ......................... <snip>

Generally speaking (unless I am bored one day :-) I have no intention of
overclocking, to be quite honest there is no real need for me to do that,
but you know what us men are like :-)
I really do appreciate ALL your time and knowledge

Thank you
<snip>

Thanks Rob

 
Reply With Quote
 
 
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Need opinion on asrock z68 pro3-m and gskill sniper rig the Blue Overclocking 4 02-15-2012 01:48 AM
ASUS Z68 Motherboards. Allan Asus 0 10-06-2011 10:00 AM
Changing motherboard with RAID array Blunt Warr Asus 3 10-16-2005 05:41 PM
Changing motherboard - safe way to remove heatsink? Michael Mason Asus 5 09-26-2005 11:49 PM
Will changing motherboard make XP throw up? _R Asus 18 04-08-2005 08:00 PM


All times are GMT. The time now is 07:39 PM.


Welcome!
Welcome to Motherboard Point
 

Advertisment