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Re: GA-785GMT-USB3 Help on ALL settings

Posts: n/a
      05-16-2010, 06:06 PM
Don wrote:
> Here is my question on the G.Skill forums posted yesterday. No
> responses yet. A comment from Paul would be great -- he is always
> helpful. Help from anyone is also appreciated. I need it.
> Thanks. See below ...
> Don
> *****
> Help from G.Skill or anyone else is appreciated. FYI – A RATHER LONG
> NOTE. Proceed with caution.
> Please let me know ALL of the optimal memory settings for
> F3-12800CL7D-4GBRM memory, a.k.a. G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB)
> 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory. The build
> project started on or about May 1, 2010.
> Here are all of the current memory related settings in BIOS for my
> GA-785GMT-USB3, Version 1.0:
> The BIOS version is F2. Maybe this is the culprit.
> On the first screen, I select “MB Intelligent Tweaker (M.I.T)”.
> The “Memory Clock” setting is set to [x8.00] by me.
> The “System Voltage Control” on the same screen is set to [AUTO].
> Then I select “DRAM Configuration” just below the “Memory Clock” setting.
> On that next screen is the following:
> DCTs Mode [Unganged]
> DDR3 Timing Items [Manual]
> CAS# latency [7T] (set by me)
> RAS to CAS R/W Delay [8T] (set by me)
> Row Precharge Time [7T] (set by me)
> Minimum RAS Active Time [24T] (set by me)
> 1T/2T Command Timing [2T] seems O.K. or try 1T
> TwTr Command Delay [6T] seems O.K. or try 5T
> Trfc0 for DIMM1 [110ns] try 88ns on all
> Trfc2 for DIMM2 [90ns]
> Trfc1 for DIMM3 [110ns] (occupied by one stick of F3-12800CL7D-4GBRM)
> Trfc3 for DIMM4 [90ns] (occupied by one stick of F3-12800CL7D-4GBRM))
> Write Recovery Time [12T] seems O.K. or try 10T
> Precharge Time [6T] seems O.K. or try 5T
> Row Cycle Time [40T] try 33T or 26T
> RAS to RAS Delay [5T] seems O.K. or try 4T
> Bank Interleaving [Enabled]
> Channel Interleave [Enabled]
> Your Assistance:
> Please comment on ALL of the settings, not just “7-8-7-24T” (please /
> thanks). Are these settings O.K. ? What should I change ? The system
> is going through setup pains with occasional “one long beep no boot”
> issues (hence the current use of DIMM3 and DIMM4 to get the thing going
> again – what a pain). Also, one episode of the “gray vertical lines
> screen of death” after installing the Sapphire card (see below –
> wonderful, a brand new card), but subsequently FurMark 1.8.2 has run for
> 1 hour on two separate occasions without incident on abusive settings
> (68 degrees C max during the FurMark tesing). Memtest86 V3.5 SMP
> (floppy version) shows no issues after running for 12 hours. The system
> will periodically stop booting, and then I switch the memory sticks
> around between DIMM1/2/3/4 to get it going again. Lots of fun.
> Additional Information:
> OS: WIN7 32 bit RC. Soon to expire, but I want everything working
> correctly before I install the paid for version of WIN7 Professional.
> Processor: AMD Athlon II X2 250 Regor 3.0GHz 2 x 1MB L2 Cache Socket AM3
> 65W Dual-Core Processor.
> Video Card: SAPPHIRE 100287VGAL Radeon HD 5670 (Redwood) 512MB 128-bit
> DDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card. Using
> VGA at the moment. HDMI later. CCC 10.4 Drivers, set at factory GPU
> (775) and Memory (1000) settings, auto fan control. Never overclocked.
> I tried underclocking at (725) and (950) but that lead to periodic black
> screen lockups. Back to factory settings. FurMark was run on factory
> settings. Great.
> The on-board Video is turned off.
> 1 SATA hard drive.
> 1 SATA + 1 IDE optical drives.
> 1 floppy drive.
> Power Supply: COOLMAX "EZ Wire" CU-400T 400W ATX Modular Power Supply.
> Maybe this is the culprit.
> 1 D-Link DWL-G520 IEEE 802.11, 802.11b/g 32bit PCI2.2 High Speed
> Wireless Adapter.
> 1 AVerMedia AVerTV Combo PCIe ATSC/NTSC/QAM TV Tuner Card (White Box)
> w/L-P Bracket, PCI-Express x1 Interface.
> That is it. If I forgot anything, let me know.
> P.S.
> This setup is replacing a TYAN S2865 that went up in flames, complete
> with scorch marks, so maybe the case has bad mojo. I think it was the
> fan-less video card (GIGABYTE GV-NX73T256P-RH GeForce 7300GT 256MB
> 128-bit GDDR2 PCI Express x16 SLI Support Video Card) that overheated
> the motherboard, but who can say. Those components are all way out of
> warranty as far as I know. I saw it happen – sparky electrical noises
> for a second or two, followed by a plume of whitish grayish smoke the
> size of my forearm shooting up followed by a complete shutdown of the
> system followed by me going into a moment of shock. Unplug the power
> supply. That was in January. Here I am today with a new dodgy system
> and several hundred lighter.
> Thanks for any and all assistance. I have built a number of systems
> since 1998, and have never run into this type of series of issues
> before. Or any issues for that matter.
> Don

HD 5670, table near the bottom, 28.7W for their "3D max" test case.

So the video card should not be flattening the power supply.


7-8-7-24-2N DDR3-1600 (PC3 12800) Test Voltage 1.6 Volts

Personally, I don't adjust more than the stated timings, as I'm too
lazy to spend days and days, adjusting things where I don't know
what they do. Basically, I verify (using CPUZ), that the motherboard
is actually using the timings the memory is rated for, then start

The RAM doesn't need excessive voltage boost. DDR3 is 1.5V nominal.
1.6 volts is not really boosted, the way some memory products are.

At that kind of speed, I might be tempted to stay with Command Rate 2T,
as at high speed, the address bus needs additional settling time.


Since you have integrated video, you could start by testing the system,
without the HD 5670 present. I would simplify the system, removing
as much other hardware as possible. The idea is, we want to be able
to point the finger at some piece of defective hardware. If the
system is still operating sub-par, with the rest of the stuff
unplugged, then that reduces the number of candidates for replacement.

The Prime95 program can be used as a combined CPU and memory stress tester.
If the system is not stable with that configuration, then you're down to
CPU, memory, or motherboard that isn't working right. Prime95 will start
a test thread per core.

I hope you're using a new power supply. The smoke and sizzling sound,
could have been coming from bad capacitors inside the previous power supply.

Prime95 is a better test than memtest86+, in terms of deciding whether the
RAM is really good or not. A test thread will stop, on the first error
detected. Prime95 can't test the entire memory, but only the section
not used by the OS itself. Memtest86+ tests closer to all the memory,
but can't touch the BIOS reserved area. You have to move the DIMMs
around in some way, to actually get all the memory tested, with
memtest86+. You'd need single channel mode, and swap DIMM positions,
to try to move the memory around enough, for absolutely complete
memtest86+ coverage.

Once you've

1) Verified settings in CPUZ in Windows. Just to prove the
BIOS settings (auto or manual), are actually being used.

2) Run memtest86+ test cases, to verify all locations have
no stuck at faults. But for stress testing, you need other test

3) Use Prime95 and run its stress test. I run mine for up to four
hours, as proof everything is fine. You may need to extend the
test time, for larger arrays of memory. No errors are acceptable.

4) If you're failing (2) or (3), you'll need to either adjust
something, or return the memory. A bit more voltage helps, in
marginal cases (like only one error in memtest86+). Using
slack timing (bump by +1) might also help. Then, you have to
decide whether the failure is worthy of returning or not.
Bump up Tcas or Trcd.

5) There is a remote chance the processor is at fault. If memory errors
always happened at the same address, you'd know for sure it was memory.
For random memory locations in error, it could be just about anything
which is at fault. Prime95 doesn't give failure addresses, so is
no help in that regard. Prime95 is a "system acceptance test", the
kind of thing you'd run, before delivering a system to a customer.
I sometimes combine Prime95 with a concurrent graphics test, as
a more stressful test case, but we're not there yet.

6) After you've completed the basics, you can add the video card and
do your 3D tests. If the system behaves entirely differently, then
the video card could be bad. Add other hardware and retest as needed.


Your power supply. Amazing - it even has -5V on it!

+3.3V @ 30A, +5V @ 40A, +12V @ 18A, -5V @ 1A, -12V @ 1A, +5VSB @ 2.5A

I think you've got enough amps on +12V, for the hardware. You have
a 65W processor, a 28.7W video card, so the load isn't that great.
As long as the supply is "healthy", and isn't the one from the
failed system, it is probably OK. You can either check the hardware
monitor page in the BIOS, for voltage readings, or dig out a
multimeter and check them if you're curious. Sometimes, the
hardware monitor readings are wrong (on one system here,
checking the +12V with a multimeter, revealed it was right
on the mark, while the BIOS said it was way off).

Some video card drivers, have special case code to handle Furmark.
If they detect you using Furmark, some throttling is applied, to
prevent burnout. At one time, you could damage a video card with Furmark.

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Posts: n/a
      05-17-2010, 03:45 AM
Don wrote:

> WOW.
> Thanks Paul. I will read your note carefully and try it all out.
> Thank you very much. I appreciate your advise.
> Don

One thing I missed, is your processor has a default
expectation for memory operating speed.

It says "DDR2-1066 and DDR3-1066" at the bottom. Or
perhaps DDR3-1333 with two sticks in dual channel, and
DDR3-1066 when four sticks are installed in dual channel.


"Memory Clock

This option is configurable only when Set Memory Clock is set to Manual.

X4.00 Sets Memory Clock to X4.00.
X5.33 Sets Memory Clock to X5.33.
X6.66 Sets Memory Clock to X6.66.
X8.00 Sets Memory Clock to X8.00. "

It'll probably default to X6.66 for DDR3-1333 on the first
startup, and then you can set it to X8.00 to get DDR3-1600.

The board promises DDR3-1800 as the maximum overclock, and since they
don't show a divider suitable to make 1800 (it would take "X9.00"),
you'd need to increase the CPU input clock a bit, over its nominal
200MHz value. Then, you could use the X8.00 setting plus a little
CPU overclock, to get to DDR3-1800. But since your memory is
DDR3-1600, you don't have to worry about this part.

The other thing to consider, when the manufacturer makes certain claims,
is to download the memory compatibility chart, and see whether they're
being honest or not. Since they support a variety of single sided (SS)
and double sided (DS) modules at DDR3-1600, it looks like you're safe.

The reviews here says...

"Remember to change the memory clock multiplier in BIOS if you are
running DDR3 1600 as default is 1333 (this is noted on the Gigabyte
site as well)."

Another thing I was just looking for, is whether the USB3 is half-speed
or full-speed. If the USB3 chip is connected to a PCI Express Rev2.0 x1
lane, it runs full speed. If connected to a PCI Express Rev1 x1,
it would run at half speed (due to the 250MB/sec limit of a Rev1 lane).
The documentation remains quiet on the subject, choosing not to name
it. In the picture here, there is an asterisk next to "6x1 PCI Express 2.0",
but without explaining under what circumstances it isn't Rev 2.0.
Rev 2.0 requires a low jitter clock, which may not be available
"for free" on the chipset. That was a limitation of some of the Intel
boards with that USB3 chip. It might take a while, before truly
worthy USB3 stuff shows up, to use as a test.

Have fun,
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