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Re: no inputs working on XP-multimedia Aspire

 
 
Rob
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      05-19-2008, 03:14 PM

"news.rcn.com" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> Has anyone come across this problem with the Aspire 5102 please? Nothing
> works, no mouse, no keyboard either on POST or in Windows. Neither
> internal nor USB. It goes into Windows, loads drivers and programs
> (unbelievably slowly) but does nothing else and has to be closed off with
> the power button to do anything.
>
> We are at the moment just trying to take the CMOS battery out for a few
> seconds to see if something in the BIOS has become corrupted but wondered
> if anyone had come across this problem before with this or any similar
> computer? Is there any other way of resetting the motherboard or flashing
> the BIOS without a mouse or keyboard? No lights go on at the external
> keyboard on turn-on so I wondered if this might be a problem before the
> whole computer even gets to the BIOS stage?
>
> Not sure if this is relevant (I cant see how it could be) but the whole
> computer seemed dead (only charge light and power button) until I
> re-seated the memory chips and then at least it went into Windows. But
> nothing else.


This probably won't help much, but I've seen similar on desktop
motherboards, when an onboard (surface mount) silicon fuse had blown.
This fuse was there to protect from short circuits in the PS/2 keyboard
and mouse cables, but also delivered the 5V power to all the USB ports.
Luckily I managed to locate it (near the keyboard PS/2 socket) and
simply soldered a bit of wire across it. If it's that, you'll need to know
what such a fuse looks like and test it with a multimeter (should be
close to zero ohms) and be 100% sure, before risking this kind of fix.
HTH,
--
Rob



 
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Fixer
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      05-19-2008, 03:22 PM

"Rob" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:g0s5gt$ej$(E-Mail Removed)...
>
> "news.rcn.com" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:(E-Mail Removed)...
>> Has anyone come across this problem with the Aspire 5102 please? Nothing
>> works, no mouse, no keyboard either on POST or in Windows. Neither
>> internal nor USB. It goes into Windows, loads drivers and programs
>> (unbelievably slowly) but does nothing else and has to be closed off
>> with the power button to do anything.
>>
>> We are at the moment just trying to take the CMOS battery out for a few
>> seconds to see if something in the BIOS has become corrupted but wondered
>> if anyone had come across this problem before with this or any similar
>> computer? Is there any other way of resetting the motherboard or
>> flashing the BIOS without a mouse or keyboard? No lights go on at the
>> external keyboard on turn-on so I wondered if this might be a problem
>> before the whole computer even gets to the BIOS stage?
>>
>> Not sure if this is relevant (I cant see how it could be) but the whole
>> computer seemed dead (only charge light and power button) until I
>> re-seated the memory chips and then at least it went into Windows. But
>> nothing else.

>
> This probably won't help much, but I've seen similar on desktop
> motherboards, when an onboard (surface mount) silicon fuse had blown.
> This fuse was there to protect from short circuits in the PS/2 keyboard
> and mouse cables, but also delivered the 5V power to all the USB ports.
> Luckily I managed to locate it (near the keyboard PS/2 socket) and
> simply soldered a bit of wire across it. If it's that, you'll need to
> know
> what such a fuse looks like and test it with a multimeter (should be
> close to zero ohms) and be 100% sure, before risking this kind of fix.
> HTH,
> --
> Rob
>
>
>Chances are it's the power supply, i know this might sound strange due to
>the fact the machine boots, but the PSU does not just deliver the full
>amount of power to the board it splits off into various amounts, the mouse
>and keyboard has a -5v supply. So if you have a generic PSU just connect
>that up and see if it works. Failing that If you have just re installed the
>hard drive and the keyboard and mouse are USB boot the machine into windows
>and give it 5 mins to load the drivers as I have seen this as well this
>on Dell desktops



 
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Rob
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      05-21-2008, 02:00 PM
Shouldn't matter - OP says no keyboard in POST, so problem
is OS-independant.
--
Rob

"HH" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> Is Windows XP the original OS or did it ship with Vista and XP was then
> installed?
>
> HH
>
> "Rob" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:g0s5gt$ej$(E-Mail Removed)...
>>
>> "news.rcn.com" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
>> news:(E-Mail Removed)...
>>> Has anyone come across this problem with the Aspire 5102 please? Nothing
>>> works, no mouse, no keyboard either on POST or in Windows. Neither
>>> internal nor USB. It goes into Windows, loads drivers and programs
>>> (unbelievably slowly) but does nothing else and has to be closed off
>>> with the power button to do anything.
>>>
>>> We are at the moment just trying to take the CMOS battery out for a few
>>> seconds to see if something in the BIOS has become corrupted but
>>> wondered if anyone had come across this problem before with this or any
>>> similar computer? Is there any other way of resetting the motherboard
>>> or flashing the BIOS without a mouse or keyboard? No lights go on at the
>>> external keyboard on turn-on so I wondered if this might be a problem
>>> before the whole computer even gets to the BIOS stage?
>>>
>>> Not sure if this is relevant (I cant see how it could be) but the whole
>>> computer seemed dead (only charge light and power button) until I
>>> re-seated the memory chips and then at least it went into Windows. But
>>> nothing else.

>>
>> This probably won't help much, but I've seen similar on desktop
>> motherboards, when an onboard (surface mount) silicon fuse had blown.
>> This fuse was there to protect from short circuits in the PS/2 keyboard
>> and mouse cables, but also delivered the 5V power to all the USB ports.
>> Luckily I managed to locate it (near the keyboard PS/2 socket) and
>> simply soldered a bit of wire across it. If it's that, you'll need to
>> know
>> what such a fuse looks like and test it with a multimeter (should be
>> close to zero ohms) and be 100% sure, before risking this kind of fix.
>> HTH,
>> --
>> Rob
>>
>>
>>

>



 
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