On 2008-09-18, Benjamin Gawert <> wrote:
> * DoN. Nichols:
>> You have the ones which are all plastic -- or the ones with the metal
>> extraction lever in front? I far prefer the latter.
>
> I do prefer them, too. But I only have seen the ones with platic lever
> once, and found it somewhat cheap made.
I've got a few. They came with the drives in a 6-hole Multipack
(9 GB drives), and I've had some failures when pulling drives using
them. So they are not as satisfactory.
I have seen *one* failure in the "good" kind. It broke along
the left side, just behind the hinge. Unfortunately, it was one with
the WWN for the drive on the lever's label. I wound up figuring out how
to move the label to an unbroken body so the drive is properly labeled
again. :-)
> I also had some 3rd party spuds
> which were also completely plastic and already deformed when pulling
> them out during removal of a hard drive from a system.
Ouch!
> I find the ones with metal lever quite good, much better than most other
> sled/tray/rail system used by other manufacturers. They are simple,
> don't take up much space, and reliable.
Agreed. Not totally perfect, as evidence above. The drive came
in a SB-1000 FWIW.
>>> the Ultra 40 or if I had to buy new ones (which then probably are
>>> hard to come by without hard drives).
>>
>> You could always find out what Sun charges for them. :-) I think that
>> there is a separate barcode number for a bare spud, as well as one
>> for spuds with specific drives pre-installed.
>
> Right, but I'm not really prepared to pay more for the spud than for the
> drive it should hold ;-)
Understood.
> And since the only thing that seems to be different between the old
> FC/SCSI spuds and the Ultra 40 spuds is the color, well...
Hmm ... color of the side rails and body under the metal lever?
>> Well ... I can't do that I'm afraid. My newest machines are SB-2000,
>> with SB-1000 and Sun Fire 280R coming close to that. :-)
>>
>> Note that my FEH covers the SB-1000, but not the SB-2000 or the Sun
>> Fire 280R. (The FEH has a 2000 date, and the badge on the SB-2000
>> say "2002" and "Twenty years of innovation". :-)
>
> When speaking about the SB2000: do you know if all SB2000 had the "20
> years of innovation" writing, or where there certain "anniversary
> models" only?
I can only speak with certainty about three.
The one which a friend and neighbor has had for a while.
The one which I got from an eBay vendor which happened to have a
1.2 GHz CPU instead of the stated 900 MHz one.
The second one which I got form the same vendor, to see whether
there was another 1.2 GHz in it. (There was.) But that one
arrived with the anti-theft block in place, and had been hit
hard enough there to bend the back and stress the connector
stack for TTYA and TTYB (and render the FC-AL disk invisible
form the CPU, even though it was there.) Well ... it had the
1.2 GHz in it, which was what mattered to me. Once I pulled the
system board and installed it in a SB-1000 chassis the system
would recognize the FC-AL drives again.
Anyway -- all three have the "2002" and the text. I have no
idea whether there were any which did not have that. But they also all
seem to have that front panel which looks so different (and so gaudy)
when illuminated by electronic flash. :-) You've probably noticed this
in many eBay auctions. :-) A few auctions even have some shots with
electronic flash, and some with the natural lighting in the room.
> Benjamin, thinking of getting a SB200 front cover for his SB1000
The front panel only needs two screws (in the CD-ROM cage) and a
little clearance under the front to disconnect the hooks at the bottom
to remove it and move it over.
However -- note that it will look a little strange. The SB-2000
also has a different color plastic "skin" over the metal chassis. The
SB-1000 has a fairly light gray skin, while that on the SB-2000 is a
dark gray-purple.
If you strip the skin off and move it too, then you will look
normal. There are tricks to getting them off intact, and the clips for
the top skin were both broken in the impact which damaged the chassis.
To get the right-side (the bulge side) off, you have to pull
*everything* out of the rear chassis. The system board to free the
power supply connectors, then the power supply itself, then you have to
reach in with two small screwdrivers to lift two clips (once you figure
out how they differ from other guides which are part of the skin), and
then you can slide the skin forward and remove it. It helps to have
three hands to do this. :-) This is also easier to do when the front
panel is already removed. I *think* that one of the clips for the top
skin also has to be accessed through the power supply cavity.
All in all -- if you have a chassis with the skin and front
panel of an SB-2000 -- just move everything into it. It is easier. :-)
Enjoy,
DoN.
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