Caps replace se6

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I have an abit SE6 with bad caps and i'm thinking to replace them (1500uF 6.3V) with 1200uF 10V (panasonic fc serie 105) from rs components I replace them calmy or there are problems http://makeashorterlink.com/?G58114846

I replace them calmy or there are problems .
 
" Leonardo" ha scritto nel messaggio

I have an abit SE6 with bad caps and i'm thinking to replace them (1500uF 6.3V) with 1200uF 10V (panasonic fc serie 105) from rs components I replace them calmy or there are problems
http://makeashorterlink.com/?G58114846

I replace them calmy or there are problems .

There is also another thing.
The caps of se6 are 8 mm diameter, while panasonic and rubycon of the same value (1500uF 6.3v) are 10 mm diameter. So it's impossible or a lot difficult to replace them, becasue they are very close one with the other. Instead,Caps 1200uF 6.3v are of the same diameter (8 mm).
 
" Leonardo" kirjoitti viestiss�

" Leonardo" ha scritto nel messaggio

I have an abit SE6 with bad caps and i'm thinking to replace them (1500uF 6.3V) with 1200uF 10V (panasonic fc serie 105) from rs components I replace them calmy or there are problems
http://makeashorterlink.com/?G58114846

I replace them calmy or there are problems .

There is also another thing.
The caps of se6 are 8 mm diameter, while panasonic and rubycon of the same value (1500uF 6.3v) are 10 mm diameter. ... very close one with the other.
Instead,Caps 1200uF 6.3v are of the same diameter (8 mm).

Somewhere in this newsgroup there are a couple of my posts concerning a SE6 and overclocking a C566. One of the first things that came to my mind when I was struggling with the easy task of setting the C566 running at 800MHz (just set the FSB to 100MHz - NOT) was that the caps of my SE6 could be bad as well. The voltages were a bit so-and-so, just wandering around a little too much in my opinion, that's why I'm a little suspicious. So, if overclocking, are the 1200uF capasitors "enough" or should I go on hunting (if the problems come back and they are tracked to the caps) 1500 ones? And no thanks, don't tell me where to get them. I live in Europe, Finland, and probably your hints would do no good around here. Unless, of course, you know a place in Finland where to buy :-)
 
no thanks, don't tell me where to get them. I live in Europe, Finland, and probably your hints would do no good around here. Unless, of course, you know a place in Finland where to buy :-)

Try this:
1500uF (10mm diameter)
http://international1.farnell.com/FI/Welcome/welcome-frame-unregistered.jhtml search 769071

or try
http://www.rsfinland.com/cgi-bin/bv/browse/Module.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@2015009195.1066742621@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccccadcjjhidljhcfngcfkmdgkldfhm.0&cacheID=fiie&3244195553=3244195553&catoid=-987042465
 
Leonardo wrote:
I have an abit SE6 with bad caps and i'm thinking to replace them (1500uF
6.3V) with 1200uF 10V (panasonic fc serie 105) from rs components I replace them calmy or there are problems http://makeashorterlink.com/?G58114846

I replace them calmy or there are problems .

i recently had to change some caps on a dualy sock 370 motherboard, the caps where 1500uf 6.3v and 2200uf 6.3v

i found loads of 1500's on LX and BX motherboards, 2200's are general on AMD kt133 type boards, or later p3 and p4 boards saves buying em, just find some dead boards, and off they come :) since i know not a lot about caps and electronics in general, i asked 2 poeple who do, they both said don't use different spec caps(unless you think you know better of course) :)
 
There's another sure bet solution...but it's not for beginners:
Replace 2 of the 8mm 1500's with 1- 3300uf low ESR Nichicon or Panasonic FC type in the 10mm or 12mm x 25 package, then add a.1 polystyrene bypass cap to the bottom of the board of each 3300. Only do this to the core voltage circuits, the I/O and AGP will be just fine with 1200's..besides, you can only stuff 512mb memory in it anyway. you will end up with 50% more capacity than original design and 1000% more capacity than the Tahey shit-cans ever did .... I can't and don't recommend the new Radeons in any boards until ATI solves some basic qc issues, the damn things draw too much current and have piss poor IC type regulators on board that are prone to failure as are the mpga mem chips they decided look cool. Upper line gforce cards will work fine in the 810/815 overclocked

Don't e-mail me for instructions on how to do the cap mod.....if you can't figure it out on your own, you will fuckituptrying !!!! I promise!

I will do it for you with the big gun 3300's for $62.50 including return shipping, turn-around on special work is usually 2 days.

Hey Ewe !!!! get back here, I am still stiff as a board ! ooooooooo I am in love this time, she let me hold ice cubes on her tail wwwtrwwreteyeeww9&^&6*^5&*

Homie
 
Hey Jeoff,
Your just the guy I am looking for !!!!
How would you like to buy 700 pounds of used capacitors recently removed from modern motherboards ? You will need to get EPA approval because of the shit juice that's a spewing but since you like them used parts I thinks we could deal ? 700 pounds for $600 & shipping what ya think ?

I am being a smartass , just keep in mind that the defective electrolyte has shown up in almost every brand of low ESR cap made during the past 1~4 years... our hobby time is probably the most valuable time that most of us spend on earth (other than farm luvin) I figure mines worth at least triple what they used to pay me at work. Why chance wasting such a precious limited resource on _most likely gunna fail _parts ?

Got any sheep?
 
Hey Homie!

Off topic.....

The caps I got from you is changed on my BE6II MB and it rocks (again) :-) The shit (MB) did fall out and random boot at me. The new caps fixed it and now the MB has a second life!

Regards
Speedy (Norway)

"Homie" wrote:

Hey Jeoff,
Your just the guy I am looking for !!!!
How would you like to buy 700 pounds of used capacitors recently removed from modern motherboards ?
You will need to get EPA approval because of the shit juice that's a spewing but since you like them used parts I thinks we could deal ?
700 pounds for $600 & shipping what ya think ?

I am being a smartass , just keep in mind that the defective electrolyte has shown up in almost every brand of low ESR cap made during the past 1~4 years... our hobby time is probably the most valuable time that most of us spend on earth (other than farm luvin) I figure mines worth at least triple what they used to pay me at work. Why chance wasting such a precious limited resource on _most likely gunna fail
_parts ?
Got any sheep?

--
Mainboards, Videocards & CPU pin repair.

http://motherboardrepair.com

"Geoff" wrote:

Leonardo wrote:
I have an abit SE6 with bad caps and i'm thinking to replace them ... caps where 1500uf 6.3v
and 2200uf 6.3v

i found loads of 1500's on LX and BX motherboards, 2200's are general on AMD kt133 type boards, or later p3 and p4 boards
saves buying em, just find some dead boards, and off they come :) since i know not a lot about caps and electronics in general, i asked 2 poeple who do, they both said don't use different spec caps(unless you think you know better of course) :)
 
Thanks for the kind words, I get lots of questions about the values I use in the kits but it's a compromise of easily obtained stock vs. trial & error for the best reasonable performance. and a little luck too!, keeping track of what makes for easy install for the weekends warrior that will be ultimately reliable. Maybe I should try marketing 2 levels of kits, the basic for the guy who knows when he's in too deep and the advanced that would even make me cringe at all the dremel & glue it would take to make it fit. I have also considered ATX power kits but I need to get a shit-load of dead atx supplies to play with & design kits for.. In the original main frames the were racks for the supplies and mega racks for the "ESB's" (energy storage banks) that way when the hd did a long reach on the platter just when the whole 512k of memory dumped, there was still a billion joules left for the monochrome video to go physcodelic .........hell you could almost see color (It was the 70's for me so I did see colors .....far-out!)

Homie
 
I'm not sure whether Homie answered my post or if he is just ...er... "confused" but thanks anyway. No, I'm not a top poster.

"Homie" kirjoitti viestiss�

There's another sure bet solution...but it's not for beginners:
Replace 2 of the 8mm 1500's with 1- 3300uf low ESR Nichicon or Panasonic FC type in the 10mm or 12mm x 25 package, then add a.1 polystyrene bypass cap to the bottom of the board of each 3300.

Me having not any education on this field, I'd better stick with strict rules and just replace 1:1 parts.

Only do this to the core voltage circuits, the I/O and AGP will be just fine with 1200's..besides, you can only stuff 512mb memory in it anyway.

Right, it is a bit annoying. But hey, wiser guys than me decided it is enough. Just like someone said years ago something like "Photocopies? Who is going to need PHOTOCOPIES ever so much that he'd want to buy a MACHINE for that?! Now get out of here, we have better things to do here at IBM! Go and found a company yourself, Mr Rank!"

you will end up with 50% more capacity than original design and 1000% more capacity than the Tahey shit-cans ever did ....

Sounds good to me but I'll need someone knowing his (or her) way thru the mine field before I jump in.

I can't and don't recommend the new Radeons in any boards until ATI solves some basic qc issues, the damn things draw too much current and have piss poor IC
type regulators

Good. I could only afford a used Radeon 7500 DDR and it seems to be enough to me. A real baby she is - the default clocks were something shitty like 250/166 (!) but she overclocks easily to 295/201 and that's enough. No more pushing. Now if only someone could tell me how to turn on the AGPx4.. in the mobo bios it is on but the card properties say it runs in 2x mode only, could this be wrong info? The slide switch (whatttaheckdoyacallitinEnglishanyway) doesn't even offer the 4x choice. The card is a Club3D one, type 7564TV (with S-video out and composite out, PAL) and it has, for some strange reason unknown to me, an AIW bios burned in. In Club3D pages they tell people to burn this particular bios in "to solve all the driver issues" and that's what the previous owner probably did.

on board that are prone to failure as are the mpga mem chips they decided
look cool.
Upper line gforce cards will work fine in the 810/815 overclocked

Hmm.. They say that Geforce FX cards have some design isuues coming from the ex-3dfx people, so I might actually get one of those. But just to keep the ex-3dfx guys at work :-)

Don't e-mail me for instructions on how to do the cap mod.....if you can't figure it out on your own, you will fuckituptrying !!!! I promise!

As I told, I know the basics but no more. I suppose my knowledge and abilities are enough for a simple 1:1 replacement but nothing more.

I will do it for you with the big gun 3300's for $62.50 including return shipping, turn-around on special work is usually 2 days.

There is one drawback here: a used SE6 does not cost that much. But thanks for the offer anyway. As I told, this is just a hobby for me and if it produces something useful it is a bonus :-) I could train some soldering first with a definately bad BF6 which I also have lying somewhere around. If I can fix it I can always throw in a spare P2 350 accompanied with a few megs of memory, collect some other random parts and sell the pile as a web surfing box. And then buy some more old stuff :-)

Hey Ewe !!!! get back here, I am still stiff as a board ! ooooooooo I am in love this time, she let me hold ice cubes on her tail wwwtrwwreteyeeww9&^&6*^5&*

This is what made me think you might be somewhat confused for some reason unknow to me :-)

 
Homie wrote:

I can't and don't recommend the new Radeons in any boards until ATI solves some basic qc issues, the damn things draw too much current and have piss poor IC type regulators on board that are prone to failure as are the mpga mem chips they decided look cool.

...as if they were actually going to change anything. Well, ain't that the shits.
 
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