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CD drive in one Sun Ultra 30 to be moved to my regular Ultra 30

Discussion in 'Sun Hardware' started by Barry L. Bond, Sep 6, 2008.

  1. Greetings!

    Well, this week, a co-worker gave me an Ultra 30! :-O

    It has kind of been "scavenged" for pieces, and he didn't want me to
    have to purchase another CD drive for my Ultra 30 right now, even though
    that wouldn't be horribly expensive. (He's right, the money I've spent on
    this lightning strike recovery is enough for this moment...)

    It has a CPU fan missing, and there is some sort of clip that is
    broken, but could be soldered.

    He said he wasn't using it any more, and gave it to me!

    So! The CD drive!

    I got the left side of the Sun cabinet off easily. (The left side if
    you're looking at the Sun from the front.)

    I see screws that holds the CD drive in on this side.

    I suspect (because I've done this in my Linux system -- on BOTH
    sides) that there are screws on the other side that also must be removed.

    Before I break something, there must be a "nice" way to get the RIGHT
    side of the cabinet open, so that I can remove those screws, too!

    Goal: remove that CD drive and place it in my Ultra 30, after of
    course removing it.

    Since the CD drive isn't critical for me now, though it would be nice
    not to have to "carefully step" around the front of it risking hitting the
    "cup holder" that is sticking out, I am going to have someone who knows
    the "good way" to open it tell me how, since I'm not figuring it out,
    looking at it! :-O :)

    Thank you!

    Barry L. Bond, Sep 6, 2008
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  2. Barry L. Bond

    Dave Guest

    What speed is the CPU? If I recall correctly, it can be fitted with 300,
    360 or 450 MHz CPUs. The 450 MHz X1195A CPUs are next to nothing on eBay
    now, so you might want to change the CPU if its under 450 MHz.

    Long ago I owned a U30, but not any longer. But I doubt you would need
    to remove the right side of the case to take the CD drive out. If its
    anything like the U60, you need to pull the front off, undo a few screws
    and remove a "cage" which has the CD drive in. Once the cage is outside,
    you undo screws on both side to extract it.

    Have you looked on the sun web site to see if you can find a service
    manual? I suspect you can find one. I've found them for any Sun box I
    have ever owned. However, I think the policy on them seems to change a
    bit from time to time.

    Here's some manuals on the U60, which is not too dissimilar.


    BTW, I can recommend the Acard AEC-7720U Ultra SCSI-to-IDE Bridge


    It allows you to use a cheap IDE-based DVD writer in a Sun, rather than
    pay loads of money for a SCSI CD-writer.
    Dave, Sep 6, 2008
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  3. Barry L. Bond

    Dave Guest

    Yes, you are probably right, i am confusing the U30 and U60. I once
    owned a U30, but did not keep it long. I bought it from eBay, but the
    seller took about 4 months to deliver it. By which time I was convinced
    he had gone off with my money, so bought a U60. Finally the U30 arrived,
    but did not work. I got it working and sold it on, without ever using it

    I thought the U30 was basically a single cpu version of the u60, but
    obviously not.

    I've got a U80 here, which I need to get rid of!
    Dave, Sep 6, 2008
  4. Hi Dave!
    Kenn didn't remember for sure the speed of this one. Mine is 248Mhz.
    He thought this one was slower, actually.

    I know, but I have spent about $2,000 in recovery from a lightning
    strike, plus this month (September) is the most expensive for me, anyway,
    because both my car insurance (renewed for 6 months) and my house
    insurance (annual) are renewed this month!

    If I don't absolutely have to, I'm not getting anything else right
    now, even if that something isn't too expensive. I'm paying $160 more a
    month than I have to on my mortgage, and it is very important to me to get
    my house paid off.
    Yes, thank you! Trinean's followup gave me just what I needed! :)

    Barry L. Bond, Sep 7, 2008
  5. Barry L. Bond, Sep 7, 2008
  6. Barry L. Bond

    DoN. Nichols Guest

    Great! This gives you a replacement system board, too, so you
    can use both serial ports (among other things).
    Hmm ... does this one use a CD-ROM drive or a DVD-ROM drive? My
    Ultra-60s used DVD-ROMs, as well as my earlier Ultra-2s. O.K. Looking
    at the FEH -- they were supplied with CD-ROM drives, I must have swapped
    in DVDs on my own -- from earlier systems. At least one of my Ultra-2s
    came with a DVD ROM drive (perhaps swapped in by a previous owner) --
    and I acquired others for other systems -- and kept moving them to the
    newer ones until I reached systems (like the SB-1000 and SB-2000) which
    came with the DVD-ROM drives as standard.

    Anyway -- the DVD-ROMis a Toshiba SD-M1401, and Sun's part
    numbers on them are:


    and if you get an older one, and want to boot from a DVD-ROM (nice when
    installing Solaris 10 -- saves a *lot* of CD swapping), you'll want to
    download the firmware patch and install it -- the 1009 firmware version.
    (You can tell which by running probe-scsi-all before booting.)
    "some sort of clip" for *what* -- and where?
    Don't touch them yet.
    There are -- but the side panel on the other side is permanent.
    You'll need to remove the bracket which carries the CD/DVD-Rom drive
    *and* the floppy -- along with a possible optional tape drive as well.

    So -- to get it out (based on checking with my Ultra-60, which
    is the same box, two CPUs instead of just one, and I think no other
    difference other than airflow control plastic.):

    1) Remove the side cover (as you have already done).

    2) Look at the bezel surrounding the CD/DVD drive, the floppy (
    if present), and the possible third drive) if present. You
    should notice that there are a pair of grooves in the sides
    about midway down.

    Grip by these and yank (perhaps with someone else holding down
    the box.) The bezel should come off in your hands. (I didn't
    have easy access, so I had to place something in the groove on
    the right as viewed from the front and hit that with the heel of
    my hand, then hold that forward as I worked the other side

    3) Look into the cavity -- just below the DVD-ROM drive. You
    should see two captive slotted head screws. Loosen these until
    they pop out (I think that they are spring assisted, and will
    come out about 1/4" or so before stopping.

    4) Start to pull the entire cage forward -- drives, cables, and

    5) Stop and spend some time unplugging ribbon cables and power
    cables from the drives.

    6) You can now slide the drive cage all the way out, and can
    now access the screws from both sides, allowing removing
    the drive from the cage. (But -- if you have the same drives in
    both systems -- why not pull the entire cage from both, and
    exchange them?) It will be easier and you can probably
    disconnect the cables at the system board end instead of at the
    The only two ways that I know of getting that side open are a
    pneumatic nibbler after drilling a hole in the side to start it, or a
    cutting torch (either of which will do nasty things to the "skin" over
    the metal chassis -- and probably to many other things in the system. :)

    It is not *made* to come open. Instead -- the drive carrier is
    made to pull out the front.
    And removing your old drive.
    I have a question -- does the drive "eject" before you start to
    boot, or only when booted? I remember having problems with one which
    ejected volutarily when booted.

    Also -- check whether "vold" is running. If it is

    ps -ae | grep 'vold'

    then try:

    sh /etc/init.d/volmgt stop

    to turn it off temporarily. You might not need to swap out the drive.
    I've already told you how to turn it off permanently, along with other
    things controlled from /etc/init.d.

    Also -- check that the SCSI cable is connected *firmly* at both
    ends. If it is not, it could be sending confusing signals to the drive,
    causing it to eject.

    Good Luck,
    DoN. Nichols, Sep 7, 2008
  7. Barry L. Bond

    DoN. Nichols Guest


    [ ... ]
    Well worth having.
    Yes -- that is the 50-pin version, which is what you want. I
    tried a 68-pin version with a wide-to-narrow adaptor, and the system got
    very confused -- especially trying to boot from it. I now have one with
    the 50-pin Acard in my Sun Blade 2000 -- and can boot from it -- even
    boot DVDs -- and also burn DVDs (from software in Solaris 10 at least.
    I think that you would have to add software to Solaris-8, which IIRC is
    what the original poster is running.

    DoN. Nichols, Sep 7, 2008
  8. Barry L. Bond

    DoN. Nichols Guest

    At least that is all that the FEH lists for it. But I would
    still be willing to try it if it is cheap enough.

    Sun says that you can mix CPU speeds of the non-Cu types in the
    Sun Blade 1000 and Sun Blade 2000.

    They also say that you can't mix Cu and non-Cu CPUs, but at the
    time that they said that, the 900 MHz Cu was the only Cu type. I wound
    up for a while with a 1200 MHz Cu and a 900 MHz Cu in my Sun Blade 2000,
    and it worked fine. (I now have two 1200 MHz CPUs, and my wife now has
    both of my 900 MHz CPUs to replace her two 750 MHz non-Cu CPUs. She
    also gained an extra 0.5 GB of RAM during the swap.
    Right -- I was running two of them for a while before the
    SB-1000 and SB-2000 machines started arriving here. :)

    DoN. Nichols, Sep 7, 2008
  9. Barry L. Bond

    DoN. Nichols Guest

    Hmm ... pull the CPU out of the new system and look at the
    barcode number.

    501-4857 250 MHz 1 MB Cache
    501-4196 300 MHz 2 MB Cache
    501-4849 300 MHz 2 MB Cache

    The '-' may or may not be present in the barcode, and there will be
    extra digits following which constitute the serial number of the module.

    [ ... ]

    DoN. Nichols, Sep 7, 2008
  10. Barry L. Bond

    Huge Guest

    Does not your household contents insurance cover you. We were struck by
    lightning a few months ago, which killed an assortment of stuff, all of which,
    including the SB2000 I'm typing this on, were paid for by the insurance.

    Trying to make a claim for a non-PC, non-Mac computer was, er, interesting.
    Huge, Sep 7, 2008
  11. Hi DoN .... and others!

    I'll start off this post with another SUCCESS!

    I exchanged the "cages" between the Ultra 30 I have in the office and
    the one Kenn gave me. I booted the Sun in the office and it read a CD!
    Yes! Remembering your comment that it was nice to have spare
    systems, which I haven't had spare actual computers in the past (though I
    have a spare on a couple of other things), I'm thinking that I may
    eventually look into seeing whether this Ultra 30 that Kenn gave me could
    be a spare for what I have in the office.

    (Also, it has 256 MB of RAM, eight "cards" where "mine" has 4 [128
    MB]. I am also thinking -- eventually -- perhaps I could allow "mine" to
    have more memory!)

    I would eventually still want to replace the CD drive, and I will
    want to look at the motherboard. (I'll add more below.)
    It was a CD drive.
    He said there was a metal "clip" (I believe "clip" was the word he
    used) and he accidentally broke one of the metal pieces and it could be
    soldered back. I had the impression it had something to do with the CPU
    fan, because I was thinking it was while he was removing that that he said
    he broke it.

    At the moment, I have no idea what he's talking about, but that
    doesn't surprise me! :)

    At the moment, I appear to have a fully functioning Sun again, post
    lightning strike, and that makes me happy -- for right now! :-D
    Neither one had a tape drive. They both had the CD and floppy
    Thank you! This is exactly what I did! :) I replaced the entire
    cages, and I just disconnected/connected four cables, the power of both
    drives, and the data (SCSI for the CD) of both drives. This was faster!
    Then I'm sure glad I asked! :-O I see that, now. The technical
    manual that I got from Sun that Trinean mentioned plus your usual
    wonderful help allowed me to accomplish this without a single problem! (I
    even got the bezels off without too much trouble!)
    The drawer wouldn't close at all. I used to hear it "spin up" (and
    see the light flash) after I closed the drawer. It doesn't "spin up" now,
    and the "cup holder" always opened again, whether there was a CD drive in
    or not! :-O (After I powered it off, I was able to push the drawer in,
    and it stayed in.)
    I did check on this. But, it was in all the way, so far as I could

    So, I'm ending with this with a report of WONDERFUL SUCCESS in that
    my Sun can read CDs again, and the drawer even stays closed! :-D

    There are sure SO MANY THINGS associated with lightning strikes! :-O

    It appears that an old DEC LA75 which I and my mother used, connected
    to our VT terminals (VT330 in the office for me, the VT220 in her bedroom
    for her) isn't working any more. It doesn't work from my terminal nor
    hers, but both terminals appear to be working perfectly.

    I'll eventually look into this, but that ISN'T CRITICAL. In fact, I
    don't know that I'll even look to replace it. I have an HP All-in-One
    9110, so we have both been able to print our bank reconciliation reports
    on that.

    And, this morning, I decided to look at the manuals of the two new
    D-Link things I've purchased recently, the DGS-2205 (Ethernet switch/hub)
    and the EBR-2310 (router/firewall). I put the first CD in the second of
    the two DVD drives in my Linux computer, and guess what...


    Now I have a cup holder on the Linux! :-(

    I had an old (purchased in 1999, with the computer) DVD read only
    drive, and I purchased a DVD read/writer drive around 2006. It is the
    older, read only DVD drive. I don't hear a "spin up" and the CD comes out
    in the same orientation as when it went in. It seems identical to the

    But, the newer one works fine. I was able to read both CDs (and
    print the small manuals) in that drive.

    Since I have one working, this isn't as critical, either, though I
    will -- eventually -- replace it.

    I'll be glad when I've tried to use EVERYTHING again, post lighting
    strike! :-O (I think I should be about there...)

    Barry L. Bond, Sep 7, 2008
  12. Hi Huge!
    Yes, it would, but frankly I'm not positive yet that I'm going to try
    to file a claim for it...

    In 1991, I was on a really low salary, and had one computer. And the
    apartment complex building I was in was directly struck by lightning. The
    fire department came and we all evacuated. It was early evening, and I
    was home. I had unplugged things I've never unplugged before -- even the
    refrigerator! :-O

    We were let back in around 9:30, I believe. So, I started going
    around and plugging things back in. Well, it turns out my computer was
    fried -- even though I had it unplugged from the wall and the serial
    devices I had connected even then disconnected!!

    (Evidently, because it was the first thing I plugged back in, because
    I had wanted to let it start booting while I went around and plugged other
    things in, it *might have been* my plugging it in [first] that fried it!
    I sent it back to Frank Hogg labs in New York [I had an OS-9 Computer in
    those days], and he said it wasn't repairable! He sent a letter, and I
    filed the insurance claim. They paid for a replacement.)

    But, I just don't have the time I had then. I have replaced the
    stereo receiver box, two telephones, an answering machine, the Cyclades
    16-port serial card that was in the Linux computer (for which I have
    purchased the ESP-16 Serial Hub), an Ethernet port on the Sun, two wall
    switches, and I'm sure a couple of other things that aren't coming
    immediately to mind [and not including the CD drive on the Sun, one on the
    Linux, the LA75 printer, if I decide they're truly gone], etc.

    I haven't received any kind of letter or anything else on any of
    these devices that there were "killed" by the lightning. If I were to
    need to get such "professional opinions" on some or all of these things, I
    don't think it would be worth it. I just don't have time right now.

    I contacted Peet Brothers this past week. They are going go give me
    $100 off a new Ultimeter 2100 weather station (because my Ultimeter 2000
    is completely dead, and the wind sensor [struck by lightning] isn't even
    on the mast any more!), and they'll be getting my current weather station
    as the indication. They may be able to send me something (when they test
    it) that indicates it was destroyed by lightning. I don't know whether
    the report that the weather station was destroyed by lightning would
    suffice for the other things that "I say" was also destroyed. I doubt it.

    I thank you for mentioning it. And, I am aware that lightning is one
    of the covered items of my insurance. But, the things to prove it (and
    again, if I have to "prove it" for all of these devices), I just don't
    know that I'm going to try, this time.

    For right now, I am keeping track of the expenses I have that I know
    are due to the lightning strike. And, I'm still thinking on it. But,
    that's my current thoughts...

    Barry L. Bond, Sep 7, 2008
  13. Barry L. Bond

    DoN. Nichols Guest

    Good plan.
    Yes -- since the system has 16 slots, you could load one system
    up to 384 MB -- or you could keep your eyes open for bigger DIMMs (which
    is what the "cards" are called). The Ultra-30 and Ultra-60 can have up
    to 2 GB of RAM with the right DIMMs (and they must match in groups of

    And are you *sure* that the new system has 256 MB? Have you
    looked at the Sun part numbers on the DIMMs? Here are the numbers and
    their sizes:

    501-2479 16 MB
    501-2622 32 MB <====<< This is probably what you have four of.
    501-2480 64 MB
    501-5691 64 MB
    501-3136 128 MB

    If the other system has eight DIMMs -- it *could* have as much as
    1GB of RAM in it.

    No jumpers to change when you change the size of the DIMMs --
    the system figures it all out and treats it as a single contiguous block
    of RAM.
    Hmm ... the CPU is a plug-in module on a printed circuit card,
    and the fan is in the bottom front of the system box -- drawing air over
    the PCI cards and framebuffer and the CPU. There is another (smaller)
    fan in the power supply -- and you have to pull the power supply to gain
    access to the DIMM sockets and to (possibly) remove and replace the
    system board.
    Note that if it is a *spring* clip, it probably won't solder
    well, and if you *do* manage to solder it, it will lose its springiness.
    I'll bet.
    Fairly common setup. The tape drives were options, and most
    people did not add them.
    Looking at the parts breakdown, I think that the power cables
    all join to a single connector which plugs into either the system board,
    or to a cable from the power supply. (I don't remember which from the
    last time I had the power supply out.)
    Hold onto that manual -- even burn a copy onto a CD-ROM to keep
    it available for future needs.
    O.K. So it was a true cup holder, not a CD-ROM drive. :)
    O.K. Damage to the drive, then.
    I'll bet.
    O.K. More damage.
    O.K. Nice to have an alternate printer for when things go
    O.K. Interesting that things this deep into two computers were
    damaged, yet the majority of the computers still work.
    And look into the ACard suggested by another poster here. Using
    that, you can mount a DVD+-RW drive in the Sun, and burn DVDs from the
    Good Luck,
    DoN. Nichols, Sep 8, 2008
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