first time water cooler

Discussion in 'Abit' started by fish, Jul 3, 2004.

  1. fish

    fish Guest

    Hello, I'm a first time water cooler.

    I just finished installing a Swiftech H2-8600
    ( kit in a Lian-Li PC60

    I had a Thermalright 900U with a 120mm fan on an Abit IC7 mainboard with a
    P4e 2.8 at 3.37.

    Installation went fine. Although ambient is a bit high today (its hot a
    muggy here in the north East), idle temp is fairly high. Certainly higher
    then with the air cooler at about 50ºc with 1.4v. Running games, folding and
    such them is in the mid 60's which is about as high as it got on air.

    The only positive is that sound is MUCH lower which was the reason why I
    went with a water cooler.

    I have the pump going directly into the water block (Swiftech 6000P) --> out
    into the radiator (mounted in the front of the case exhausting out the
    front) --> out to the Northbridge (MCW20) cooler then up to the bleeder and
    then down to the pump again.

    I can add a second radiator if necessary but would rather not.
    fish, Jul 3, 2004
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  2. fish

    DNX Guest

    For the best results with watercooling, it should go Pump -> Radiator ->
    CPU -> Northbridge -> Pump.

    The reason for this is so that the cpu gets the coolest water straight from
    the radiator.

    You should also have the fan sucking air in through the radiator as the air
    from outside your case will be cooler than what is inside your case.

    Also double check the seating of the waterblock on your cpu as if not
    correct it will give higher temps.

    If possible also use Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste.

    DNX, Jul 3, 2004
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  3. fish

    fish Guest

    Thanks, quite frankly, no way is any of the water cooler at any one place
    then another. The water is moving so quickly and the volume is fairly low,
    water temperature is a constant throughout the small system. Temp rises
    slowly and drops just as slowly.
    Idle temp is higher then air especially after its warmed up a bit but top
    temps and spikes are much lower so far.

    Drawing air from outside and filling the case with hot and I mean HOT air
    from the radiator is a really bad idea, sorry no offence. I went out of my
    way to put a 80mm fan on the back to draw air into the case because it was
    getting really hot inside the case. The pump itself gets very hot. Hard
    drives and my memory on my video card were hotter then ever and the Radeon
    9700 was letting me know it. Venting the case a little better solved all of
    that. I have a 6-fan speed controller so I can turn down fans to keep things
    quiet. I have a nice powerful Mechtronics on the back and another one in the
    front pulling cool air through the case and its still VERY quiet.

    I removed the cases front bezel and the 80mm unobstructed radiator hole is
    breathing much better, system temp dropped 5 to 8 degrees Celsius.

    CPU PSU Motherboard
    48º 39º 36º idle
    58º 48º 37º gaming

    Ambient temp inside the case isn't getting very hot but the PSU (Zalman
    400w) and the CPU get fucking HOT!
    fish, Jul 3, 2004
  4. Have the fan on the radiator blowing in really would be better. Your
    case in under-pressured with the rad and PSU exhausting, which mean
    the ran on the rad is having to work harder to get air through the
    rad. Take advantage of the normal case air flow, have the fan in back
    and PSU help to pull the air through the rad. Don't worry about the
    air coming off the rad being warm: after all, that heat was released
    in your case when you had air-cooling.

    My MCP600 only gets slightly warm to the touch; improved airflow will
    help there, too.

    Are you overclocking really high? On my systems, I've found that
    northbridge blocks cause more problems by impeding water flow than
    they solve by cooling the NB. The sole exception I've encountered was
    with integrated graphics and a high FSB, where the NB block was
    essential for stability.

    Another thing that might help you is knowing your water temperatures.
    I epoxied the probe of an indoor/outdoor thermometer into a T-fitting.
    If the water's more the three or four degrees celsius over ambient, I
    look for more air through the rad or a bigger rad (one of my systems
    uses the radiator from a Geo Storm).

    Good luck!
    Satan's Little Sister, Jul 3, 2004
  5. fish

    fish Guest

    The problem is that the radiator will then be blowing hot air directly into
    the pump and video card.

    I agree that the case wasn't venting well enough. Once I pulled the cases
    bezel it allowed big opening in the front to draw air. I'm interested in
    keeping the case cooler then its been.

    The Zalman PSU is a replacement for a very good but noisy Enermax. The
    Zalman runs very hot and has this odd venting with a slow moving fan and BIG
    heatsinks. Its quite all right but it doesn't move very much air at all.

    In all cases, Swiftech has the air being pulled from within the case out
    through the radiators.

    How do you think a second radiator would do?
    fish, Jul 3, 2004
  6. fish

    DNX Guest

    I've got my watercooling setup in a external radbox that the computer case
    sits on.

    It has the radiator in front with 2 x 120mm fans pulling air through
    radiator with pump directly behind fans, which keeps it cool and a reservoir
    behind that. Then i have a fan exhausting the air out of the back of radbox.

    My 2.6c is running @ 3297mhz with idle 0 - 2 degrees above ambient. At the
    moment case is 26c and cpu is 26c. I have had the cpu run at 1 - 2c below
    case temps on cold days.

    When running prime 95 etc the cpu under load it goes no more than 10c above
    case ambient.

    You need to have good air flow running through your case, no matter what the
    outside of case temp is. Air circulated by fans is cooler than non
    circulating air.

    DNX, Jul 3, 2004
  7. Hard to say with a water temperature (a second rad would nearly halve
    the difference between water and ambient temps), but it would likely
    help by 3 to 6 degrees. Plumb the second rad in parallel with the
    first by splitting your water flow with a Y-fitting.
    Satan's Little Sister, Jul 4, 2004
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