1. This forum section is a read-only archive which contains old newsgroup posts. If you wish to post a query, please do so in one of our main forum sections (here). This way you will get a faster, better response from the members on Motherboard Point.

Gtx 460 cooling suggestion

Discussion in 'Overclocking' started by PcGAmeR22, Jan 9, 2012.

  1. PcGAmeR22

    PcGAmeR22 Guest

    Im purchasing the gtx 460 tomorrow
    but im still using a dell vostro 230 mini tower case , i know this cas
    provides bad air flow for this card
    I am thinking about maximizing the fan speed , leaving a side of th
    case opened and underclocking the gpu a little
    do these things help cool down the gpu ?
    if not what else i can do , im buying an atx haf x mid tower after
    My motherboard is compatible with this graphics card
    Pci express 1.0 slot x16 + pci slot x1 , the x1 slot is not used
    I have a 700 watt modular power supply with a 6 pin connecter so tha
    covers everything
    im just concerned about the heating
    PcGAmeR22, Jan 9, 2012
    1. Advertisements

  2. PcGAmeR22

    Paul Guest

    You start by looking at the physical design of the card.

    In the picture here, this is a dual slot card, with a
    vent in the second slot position. Some of the cooling air
    uses the vent. But the casing on the video card, is seldom
    air tight, so some of the warm air will escape from around
    the card area itself.


    Opening the side of the case, can either be an advantage or a
    disadvantage. With the side on the case, the air flow is constrained
    to move to the back exhaust vent (air moves in a preferred direction).
    And sometimes that's better than just allowing warm air to collect
    around the things that get hot.

    The card should not overheat immediately. If you're not gaming,
    the card temperature should remain at a reasonable level, with
    the side cover in place. You can load up your favorite utility
    (something like GPU-Z has a temp monitor) and enter a game for
    a short time, then alt-tab back to the desktop and check the
    video card temperature readout. That will give you some idea
    whether things are headed in the wrong direction or not. Programs
    like Speedfan also allow readouts, including things like CPU temp
    or motherboard temp (if there is an available sensor). So there
    are some means to monitor how well it's working.

    http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/SysInfo/GPU-Z/ (GPU-Z V0.5.7)
    http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php (Speedfan 4.45)

    If you take the side off, you'd then have the option of pointing
    a larger fan at the side of the case. Which would prevent stagnant
    air from collecting.

    On my current case, the side panel is always off. I keep an
    80mm fan mounted under the drive cage, and blowing towards the
    video card. And that sweeps warm air away from the video card
    area (since the case side is off, the spill air just shoots
    out into space).

    video card 80mm Front of
    F------------- Fan Case
    --- <-------

    (Air shoots out into room...)

    So in my case, the video card's own fan, moves the heat from the card,
    into the computer case air. And then, the added 80mm fan, blows
    fresh air, into the video card area. Note that the 80mm fan just
    picks up intake air, from the open area on the casing - it doesn't
    have to be mounted in this case, right up against an intake vent
    on the front of the case. My cooling solution is only really valid,
    for as long as the cover is off the side of the casing.

    To keep the fan standing upright, I run a threaded rod through the
    back of the case, and the threaded rod fits right through the
    mounting hole in the fan. And that prevents the fan from falling
    over. It was sheer luck, that my case had the holes that I needed
    to do that. Usually, it's tough finding things to secure the
    fan with, so it doesn't fall over. (I've used nylon wraps before,
    but I don't really like that method all that much.)

    That won't solve every possible cooling problem. If the video card
    fan and heatsink weren't good enough in the first place, the GPU
    can still get pretty damn hot. My solution just moves warm air
    away from the vicinity of the video card.

    Paul, Jan 10, 2012
    1. Advertisements

  3. PcGAmeR22

    PcGAmeR22 Guest

    thank you for your suggestions
    is it recommended to do what i wanna do or should i wait for the ne
    case to come
    i really wanna go into the gtx 460 gaming soo
    PcGAmeR22, Jan 13, 2012
  4. PcGAmeR22

    rb Guest

    It's all about airflow, so as long as you don't let the card get to
    hot, you'll be ok. :
    rb, Jan 13, 2012
  5. PcGAmeR22

    Paul Guest

    With GPUZ and Speedfan running, you can do a "quick check" and
    run a game for a couple minutes and watch the temperature.
    If the temperature is getting too high, then you know you need
    to wait for the new case.

    My video card runs at around 50C when it's flat out, but it's
    a gutless card. For my own usage, if I had a better card,
    I'd probably be a bit unhappy if it was over about 95C.
    The silicon is probably simulated to 105-110, but if you
    run it that way for a long time, I bet it doesn't do wonders
    for the reliability of the card. Find some reviews for
    your new card somewhere, and see what other people see for
    temps. If your temps are the same, you're good to go. If
    your temps shoot over those numbers, then wait for the new

    The reviews on Newegg, may give you some temperature numbers.
    Or a good web review may do that also.


    With respect to your new case, be aware that the front panel
    wiring and pins, may not exactly match a Dell motherboard.
    Just so this won't be a surprise when you get there. The
    Dell might have a 2x4 pin thing, for the PANEL header. The
    retail computer case you're buying, could have a different
    pin span on some of the twisted pair connector wires. To modify
    the span, you can rewire the polyester plastic shell.

    The picture at the bottom of this page, shows how the tab on
    the connector bends out, so that you can pull the pin and wire
    out of the shell. And that will aid in getting the right "span"
    on the twisted pair front panel wiring of your new case. You pull
    the wire and pin out, and put it into a different hole, so it
    mates with the motherboard properly.


    Paul, Jan 13, 2012
  6. PcGAmeR22

    PcGAmeR22 Guest

    fair enough
    does underclocking help in such case
    PcGAmeR22, Jan 13, 2012
  7. PcGAmeR22

    rb Guest

    If airflow is restricted, even underclocking might not help, but you ca
    try it. Step it down in 5-10% increments. If you go beyond 40-50% th
    GPU and video ram may become unstable...screen artifacts, etc.
    If the card runs hot, wait till ya get the new case
    rb, Jan 14, 2012
  8. PcGAmeR22

    PcGAmeR22 Guest

    thank yo
    i have the card with me now but i did not unbox it yet
    figured it might be better to wai
    PcGAmeR22, Jan 14, 2012
  9. PcGAmeR22

    Paul Guest

    Many years ago, in pure CMOS and with large geometry devices,
    the power was a simple function of clock speed. It was
    proportional to F*C*V**2. In overclocking/underclocking
    situations, you also have the option of adjusting the
    voltage. And then the result is, you can do better than
    the proportionality in F, in terms of improvement (linear
    in F, plus drop the voltage a tiny bit). If you drop the
    frequency by 5%, you get a 5% improvement in power, and
    then you might be able to adjust the voltage down a tiny
    bit and save a percent or two more. That kind of an improvement,
    isn't likely to fix a case cooling problem.

    In modern small geometry devices, there is leakage current.
    That is a small constant term in the equation (F*C*V**2 + Leak).
    At 3 microns, the leakage would be zero. For the Intel Prescott
    processor, leakage was 25% of the nominal power rating. And
    leakage is not proportional to clock rate. So if you'd dropped
    the clock rate on the Prescott to zero Hz, the power used would
    still be 25% of the nominal value.

    Since the Prescott era, improvements have been made in
    transistor structures (the structures are more complicated).
    This has beaten back the leakage number, such that it's no
    longer 25%. The structures used are not a constant. They might
    use a leaky structure for a logic path that must go "fast".
    And a less leaky structure for the run of the mill stuff.
    Maybe the less leaky structures are even gated in some way
    (for when the card is idling).

    The core of the GPU, runs at around 1.0 volts and up to the
    200 amp range, and the voltage adjustments are in pretty
    tiny steps (as it affects the stability even in small steps).
    You might even find unit to unit variation, in the voltage
    setting, but I don't have any details or first hand info
    on such things (maybe one card is 1.000V and another card
    is 1.050V core voltage). I'm always amazed at how they
    can do stuff like that, those huge currents. No room
    for mistakes.

    Paul, Jan 14, 2012
    1. Advertisements

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.