K8T NEO FIS2R Bios Not Found, Black Screen

Discussion in 'MSI' started by Bratek, May 12, 2004.

  1. Bratek

    Bratek Guest

    Self-build K8T Neo/Athlon 64 - All went well and installed without
    issue. Proceed to start for first time, POST Message of "Device not
    installed, Bios not found" Not verbatim but basically that. Could not
    get past that except to enter CMOS Setup, RAID setup etc. Attempted
    Win-ME Start-up disk and got to a command prompt and attempted to
    install Xp Pro, started but gave error of hard drive not found though
    all SATA connections were solid. Decided must be related to the BIOS
    not found issue. Downloaded latest BIOS for AMI for this board and
    from command prompt typed A:\adsfI712.exe a6702vms.160 The screen
    showed the Flash and then the Programming without a problem.
    Restarted PC and Monitor was BLACK. Checked all conn's, replaced Video
    card etc.

    Next step, Copied Flash Util: adsfI712.exe and renamed BIOS of
    amiboot.rom and restarted PC holding Ctrl-Home for at least 5 mins. No
    success. Attempted Clear CMOS Jumper, replaced and Restarted with
    Floppy Amiboot.rom again. No Success. noted D-Bracket with 4 Red LED's
    on back. I know what that means but do not know if that was there all
    along. Removed CPU Heatsink and verified power, connections and
    reseated CPU and replaced Heatsink w/ no problems noted. Repeated Boot
    steps with amiboot.rom but still black screen throughout. Please Help!
    Thanks in advance.

    AMD Athlon 64 3000+
    MSI K8T NEO FIS2R
    AMI Bios (attempted 1.4 and 1.6)
    Legacy DDR 512MB PC3200 400mHz Single
    Nvidia GeForce FX5200 (temporary)
    Maxtor 160GB SATA 7200 8MB
    Emprex DVD Dual 8x DVDRW
    Raidmax PSU 420W
    Windows XP Pro Eventually
     
    Bratek, May 12, 2004
    #1
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  2. Bratek

    Stogie Guest

    The old black screen on boot up with four red LEDs on the D-Bracket
    is a fairly common problem.
    So far I've only seen four fixes for the problem.

    1. Defective motherboard (Although this is seldom the problem)
    2. Power supply is defective, or you forgot to connect the four
    wire auxiliary power connecter to the motherboard. The auxiliary power
    connecter must be connected for this motherboard to work.
    3. Your reset switch is stuck. Disconnect the reset switch from the
    motherboard, then try to boot up.
    4. This one is weird. It fixed my problem, however, based on the
    troubleshooting you've done, I don't hold out hope it will fix yours.
    For some strange reason, some MSI motherboards will not boot
    if you've just plugged them in. Plug in the computer, make sure
    the power strip and the switch on the power supply are all in the
    "ON" position, then go grab a beer. After waiting a couple of minutes,
    turn on the computer.
    I know it sounds weird. But I have the same motherboard and CPU.
    If I turn on the power strip and attempt to boot my computer immediately,
    I get a black screen and four red LEDs. If I turn on the power strip and
    wait a minute or two, the computer boots up every time and works
    perfectly.

    Hope this helps.




    Self-build K8T Neo/Athlon 64 - All went well and installed without
    issue. Proceed to start for first time, POST Message of "Device not
    installed, Bios not found" Not verbatim but basically that. Could not
    get past that except to enter CMOS Setup, RAID setup etc. Attempted
    Win-ME Start-up disk and got to a command prompt and attempted to
    install Xp Pro, started but gave error of hard drive not found though
    all SATA connections were solid. Decided must be related to the BIOS
    not found issue. Downloaded latest BIOS for AMI for this board and
    from command prompt typed A:\adsfI712.exe a6702vms.160 The screen
    showed the Flash and then the Programming without a problem.
    Restarted PC and Monitor was BLACK. Checked all conn's, replaced Video
    card etc.

    Next step, Copied Flash Util: adsfI712.exe and renamed BIOS of
    amiboot.rom and restarted PC holding Ctrl-Home for at least 5 mins. No
    success. Attempted Clear CMOS Jumper, replaced and Restarted with
    Floppy Amiboot.rom again. No Success. noted D-Bracket with 4 Red LED's
    on back. I know what that means but do not know if that was there all
    along. Removed CPU Heatsink and verified power, connections and
    reseated CPU and replaced Heatsink w/ no problems noted. Repeated Boot
    steps with amiboot.rom but still black screen throughout. Please Help!
    Thanks in advance.

    AMD Athlon 64 3000+
    MSI K8T NEO FIS2R
    AMI Bios (attempted 1.4 and 1.6)
    Legacy DDR 512MB PC3200 400mHz Single
    Nvidia GeForce FX5200 (temporary)
    Maxtor 160GB SATA 7200 8MB
    Emprex DVD Dual 8x DVDRW
    Raidmax PSU 420W
    Windows XP Pro Eventually
     
    Stogie, May 12, 2004
    #2
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  3. Bratek

    Heywood Guest

    Suggest an RMA...I have this board...no problem and have flashed the
    bios 3 times... Sounds like the Bios was scrambled when you got it or
    it was hit with some static electricity!

    PS You might check to make sure there is no grounding from the board
    to chasis.
    Jeff
     
    Heywood, May 12, 2004
    #3
  4. Bratek

    Bratek Guest

    Thanks for your input guys, any other hints are welcome. I wore the
    handy anti-static blue wrist strap the whole time and have both power
    connectors connected. I have all 9 brass spacers with washer things
    but need to check anyway for some kind of short.

    I have been doing a lot of forum research and have found a few other
    strategies including, reseating or moving Memory stick to different
    slot, trying an old stick of PC2100, checking my PSU Max Amps
    settings, unplugging everything except Vid Card. I would be exstatic
    just to get to see a POST or anything on the monitor at this point.
    Not excited for the hassle but am starting to lean to RMA. Scary how
    many issues with this board.

    Plan to also verify Memory Specs for compatibility, I took the Sales
    guy at Fry's word on this combo.

    Thanks,
    Jason
     
    Bratek, May 12, 2004
    #4
  5. Bratek

    Nightmedic Guest

    Sata drivers have to be loaded before yoy can install the operating system
     
    Nightmedic, May 13, 2004
    #5
  6. Bratek

    Nightmedic Guest

    (Bratek) wrote in @posting.google.com:
    OK #1 SATA Drivers must be loaded first. before it will load the OS..
    Second do you have a good power supply? Is everything grounded? But if Bios
    is not found I suspect you have a bad BIOS. Call tech and RMA it. I am
    using the same board without any of those problems and while I love MSI
    mobo's I have had a problem with them once or twice on the QC side.
    Night
     
    Nightmedic, May 13, 2004
    #6
  7. Bratek

    Bratek Guest

    Done Deal. MSI Support says RMA and Fry's Electronics says exchange it
    and at this point sounds good to me. Unfortunately I missed the screen
    or never got far enough to F6 install the SATA drivers. Good point
    though, this is my first SATA setup with single drive and thought I
    only needed to F6 add drivers on SCSI RAID, good to know! Also, in
    reading other forums, my new PSU may not be cutting it. On the MSI
    Forums it was recommended that the 12v Amps be quite a bit higher than
    I have which is 13.0A. Will return Mobo, go for a 2nd shot, and price
    a beefier Power Supply.

    Have learned much with this experience. I am reassured that this may
    be a Mfr QC or bad luck kind of thing. Look forward to 2nd board and
    hope it fares better. Should be worth the wait.

    Thanks!
    Jason

    P.S. Go with SATA driver disk or download latest?
     
    Bratek, May 13, 2004
    #7
  8. Bratek

    Jay Guest

    Hi there,
    Although your existing MB maybe bad, I have a few suggestions for the
    next one...

    Actually, you WANT metal contact between the metal surrounding the screw
    hole on the MB and the case. When you put the new MB in, don't use the
    insulating washers make sure there is full metal contact.

    Having metal contact with the case helps in a lot of ways, including
    with EMI shielding, anti-static protection and heat evacuation.

    Also, you said you used the "blue strap", but what was that actually
    connected to? In order to properly use the grounding strap, it has to
    connect to Earth ground at some point, otherwise the charge that has
    built-up on your body doesn't go anywhere!

    I suggest you hook a power cord to your power supply then clip the blue
    cord to the power supply (say on a fan cage sheild). The power supply
    case is tied to Earth ground, so this will work. With you wearing the
    strap and it connected to the corded PSupply, put all the components in
    your machine. Then as a last step, disconnect the power cord to the
    supply and mount the power supply into the case and attach the power
    cords.

    Also, I don't know how good "Raidmax" is, but a *LOT* of power supplies
    that have some power claim (i.e. 420W) don't live up to it. New machines
    are VERY sensitive to a good power supply, so make sure you use
    something that works well.

    The Antec TruePower supplies have worked for me; I am using a 480W unit
    on my dual-K7 (MSI K7D) and dual-K7 Tyan (24664N) and a 380W on a
    fileserver and I've zero issues for 2+ years. These are the same boards
    people have "odd" problems with and can't explain.

    The one thing I *don't* like about the Antec supplies is they have some
    "intelligent" fan throttling which runs the rear exhaust fan at a lower
    RPM than default causing the unit to get warm.

    Finally, you may want to go with a branded memory module that MSI has
    tested with, like Kingston, Corsair, or Crucial.

    Everytime I see someone with some "strange" issue like system locking
    up, or not working properly, it's because they went cheap on the power
    supply, memory or some peripheral (video card, etc). I'm not saying
    that's your problem, but take what other people say with a grain of
    salt...there are a lot of people who think they know a lot about
    computers but sadly they don't.

    Regards,
    Jay.
     
    Jay, May 14, 2004
    #8
  9. Bratek

    Bratek Guest

    Actually, you WANT metal contact between the metal surrounding the screw
    Thanks very much Jay, good info! I had been grounding myself to the
    chassis but if it is on a wood table where is the ground? Also, I was
    using the insulating washers that came with case. Makes me wonder as
    on previous installs did not use those.

    I got an A+GB 500W PSU today: +3.3v 26/35a, +5v 47/61a, +12v 28a. Also
    exchanged the MoBo for same and will go at it again. Though have
    learned from various Memory issues from these forums to stick with
    memory verified and tested by MSI/AMD, I will see if my "Value" Legacy
    Electronics 512MB PC3200 400mHz will work out. Plan to Memtest and
    adjust manual settings if necessary. If not, move on to proven memory
    brand.

    Most appreciated,
    Jason
     
    Bratek, May 14, 2004
    #9
  10. Bratek

    Jay Guest

    Jason,
    You're welcome. :)
    Exactly! That's why I suggested you hook an AC cord to the power supply
    and then ground yourself to the power supply. The power supply metal
    case is hooked to Earth ground which is what you want.
    I wasn't suggesting that not using the washers was THE reason, but it
    certainly helps a lot TO use them.
    I'm very skeptical of what the sticker on a power supply says. Most of
    these power supplies are overseas "designed" and they're made as cheaply
    as possible, without any real regard to quality or standards.

    That's why I suggested the Antec, it maybe more expensive but it does
    work. I would suggest the True380.

    Good luck, let us know how it goes.
    Jay.
     
    Jay, May 15, 2004
    #10
  11. Bratek

    Bratek Guest

    TaDa...PSU was the reason, That 500W looked nice, good specs etc., but
    with testing using an Antec 430W True Power, I was able to POST!
    Turned out the issue was that the Motherboard was not getting power.
    Out of the 500w PSU the MoBo Power cable was 24 pin and they gave an
    adapter for 20 pin. Somewhere in that power link or adapter was the
    failure to provide power to the board.

    In Summary, Wow did Windows XP install fast! The PSU that came with
    the case, 4 red - no work, new 500w 4 red - no work, Antec 430w True
    Power worked like a charm. During this troubleshooting process I
    upped the ante to Kingmax HyperX PC3200 400mHz 2x512MB. Sweet!

    Thanks Jay and others for your assistance. I hope this thread helps
    others as well.

    Jason
     
    Bratek, May 15, 2004
    #11
  12. Bratek

    Jay Guest

    Hi Jason,

    Ah-ha! I figured as much! Well, just spread the word on those other
    forums that you found that if you use a *quality* power supply with
    *quality* RAM, you're probably much less likely to have issues.

    RMAs and new motherboards and all of that end up costing us, the
    consumer in the long run. It's better do it right the first time than
    rack up tech support time, returns to stores, shipping and all that
    jazz.

    Personally, I don't consider "Enermax", "Thermaltake" or any of those
    other guys as decent power supply vendors. Antec TruePower certainly
    does work (it has for me in all the high-end systems I've build).

    The other more expensive route is PC Power & Cooling though their 480W
    PSupply sounded like a jet engine; they had used some obnoxiously loud
    fan last time I tried it. I also don't find their customer sevice to be
    all that friendly, I think they're just banking on their past
    reputation, but I digress.

    Good luck with the machine, keep us POSTed ;) (hah, hah, bad joke).

    Jay.
     
    Jay, May 16, 2004
    #12
  13. Bratek

    yepnope Guest

    (Bratek) wrote in
    Look forward to 2nd board and
    Use the driver disk then update it.(live uodate included with driver/setup
    disk). Oh by the way: keeep a record of your settings when and or if you
    upgrade or flash the BIOS. When you download and flash everything goes to
    default settings... ope all goes well!

    Nightmedic
     
    yepnope, May 19, 2004
    #13
  14. Bratek

    TMac Guest

    I had the same exact problem with the same hardware specs, swapped my
    power supply out for the Antec 430w TruePower and still get the Black
    Screen of Death.

    Anyone else have any other possible solutions?

    ==============
    Posted through www.HowToFixComputers.com/bb - free access to hardware troubleshooting newsgroups.
     
    TMac, Aug 8, 2004
    #14
  15. Bratek

    TMac Guest

    I had the same exact problem with the same hardware specs, swapped my
    power supply out for the Antec 430w TruePower and still get the Black
    Screen of Death.

    Anyone else have any other possible solutions?

    ==============
    Posted through www.HowToFixComputers.com/bb - free access to hardware troubleshooting newsgroups.
     
    TMac, Aug 8, 2004
    #15
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