NF7-S Rev2.0 and error codes

Discussion in 'Abit' started by Per Nielsen, Dec 15, 2004.

  1. Per Nielsen

    Per Nielsen Guest

    Anybody have a link regarding error codes for an Abit NF7-S Rev2.0?

    Just upgraded a friend's machine yesterday. Later in the evening he rang me
    and told me it made some sirene sound and then it shut down. He haf just
    made some surfing and e-mailing. When he wanted to enter Explorer it
    happened. And now it barrely gets into WinXP Pro before it happens.

    Any ideas what I should be looking for? Following are the parts that have
    been upgarded:

    Abit NF7-S Rev2.0 (Unified Driver 5.10)
    Athlon XP Barton 3200+
    2x512MB Kingston PC3200 DDR RAM
    Antec TruePower 480W
    AOpen NVidia 6800GT (whql-driver 66.81)
    Alpha 8045T
    80mm Papst
    Seagate IDE 160GB 7200.7
    WinXP Pro (DirectX9.0c)
     
    Per Nielsen, Dec 15, 2004
    #1
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  2. Temperature alarm?

    Bri
     
    Brian Hopkinson, Dec 15, 2004
    #2
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  3. Per Nielsen

    Per Nielsen Guest

    I guess you mean the CPU could get too hot? The Alpha heatsink and Papst
    cooler should be able to do the job, I think. But perhaps it's not mounted
    properly, I'll look into that. Thx. BTW, nothing is overclocked. And what
    are the App. temp. range for a Barton 3200+?
     
    Per Nielsen, Dec 15, 2004
    #3
  4. Per Nielsen

    _Vanguard_ Guest


    Don't have the 3200+ but the 2500+ runs (for me) between 40 to 50
    degrees C. I think 80 or 85 degrees C is the max operating range
    temperature specification (depends on family model for CPU).

    If it's not a screwed up setting in the BIOS (you never mentioned what
    you really meant by "upgrading" your friend's host) then maybe you
    forgot to use thermal compound on the CPU heatsink (or you gooped it on
    so thick that it insulates the CPU and heatsink). Thermal compound is
    nowhere as fast for thermal transfer as metal-to-metal contact, but it
    is faster than air. It should be applied to be very thin and
    transparent so it fills in the microscopic air gaps in the contact
    between the heatsink and CPU heat plate. If you goop it on too thick,
    you reduce thermal conductivity. If the heatsink is warped (they all
    are to a degree unless you lap the surfaces of both the heatsink and CPU
    heat plate), the thermal compound is thicker in the open gap (if they
    even mate). Apply a small dab, smooth it out evenly so it is
    transparent, push down on the heatsink while rotating it atop the CPU
    heat plate to smooth and squish out the excess goop, and make sure to
    center it atop the CPU heat plate when you lock it down. If you are
    using a thermal compound that has silver in it (rather than ceramic or
    silicon based goop), make sure any goop that squished out doesn't short
    anything (if you dabbed on the correct amount, almost none of it will
    ooze out). If you are using thermal tape, make sure the heatsink is
    centered and not tilted. If the "upgrade" was to a new or faster CPU,
    you did remember to remove that blue tape from the CPU's heat plate,
    right? ;-)

    My NFS-7 v2 won't even [stay] power up if the CPU fan isn't spinning so
    I don't hear any alarm to alert me to a defective CPU fan. Could be a
    BIOS setting that checks this so make sure the CPU fan is spinning. If
    your "upgrade" was a BIOS flash update, maybe you need to clear the CMOS
    table copy of the BIOS (by shorting a mobo jumper) to start from scratch
    and from a known base state. If it was a BIOS flash update, hopefully
    you used the correct flash file; I don't know about their site now, but
    previously you had to make sure you clicked the link to the version *2*
    support page to ensure you got the BIOS updates for that version of
    their mobo.

    http://bioscentral.com/beepcodes/awardbeep.htm

    Make sure you don't have a fan blowing in the opposite direction of the
    CPU fan. Two fans facing each other (or away from each other when close
    together) will reduce the air flow rate. In fact, I've seen where *not*
    using a backpanel exhaust fan near the CPU fan (or lowering it to
    another lower grill opening) will actually lower the temperature. In
    fact, in a couple cases, I've reversed the backpanel exhaust fan (so it
    was an intake fan) which resulted in lower temperatures for the CPU,
    case, video GPU, etc. I've seen users put case fans in the side panel
    right above the CPU fan but had it blowing in instead of out, so they
    blew against the CPU fan's exhaust direction and lowered the effective
    air flow rate of the CPU fan. Obviously you shouldn't have cables over
    the fan's exhaust side, especially the flat IDE ribbon cables, nor
    should they block the route to exhaust the warmed air (neatness and
    cable orientation really does help). Keep cables away from fan exhausts
    and components that use conduction to remove heat, like memory sticks.

    Obviously if you want to get rid of warmed air using exhaust fans then
    you need enough air flow into the box to then push it out. A fan
    covered by your hand just spins with no air flow. Make sure you have
    sufficient intake CFM to account for the exhaust CFM. I've seen some
    cases that had a 120mm [exhaust] fan in the PSU, an 80mm backpanel
    exhaust fan, maybe some more case fans, but intake was too restrictive
    so the fans couldn't suck in enough air to cool the components inside.
    You can't push out more air than you suck in.

    Make sure you dusted out the inside. Besides eliminating hidden ESD
    that can damage the system, dust is a thermal insulator. I've opened
    cases that looked like the user was using it as a piggy bank for their
    dryer's lint filter. You could use fan filters but those lower the
    air-flow rate (which gets worse as they plug up and which means the
    non-filtered air paths get more used), or periodically blow out the dust
    depending on how dusty is your environment (and why I dislike carpeted
    floors).
     
    _Vanguard_, Dec 15, 2004
    #4
  5. I was thining that maybe the fan had stopped spinning , or in my case once a
    book had dropped down the back of the computer blocking the fans.


    Bri
     
    Brian Hopkinson, Dec 15, 2004
    #5
  6. Per Nielsen

    wazza Guest

    BIOS beeps seem to be customisable, so sometimes they are slightly
    different, but sirens while operating might be temp.
    Can you get to the BIOS to see the temp?
    Has he tried taking the cover off and having a fan blowing into the guts of
    the PC?
     
    wazza, Dec 16, 2004
    #6
  7. Per Nielsen

    Per Nielsen Guest

    That's the way I did it :) The mentioned hardware is all brandnew.
    I found this:

    http://tinyurl.com/2kqhf

    The heatsink and fan should be mounted correctly and the fan is running.
    There's a little note about sirene sound if one reads about version 17:

    Fixed the intermittent sirens when getting into Windows 2000 or XP with both
    "Shutdown when CPUFAN Fail" and "CPU Shutdown Temperature" enabled in PC
    Health Status.

    That could be the problem, so I'm going to check his BIOS.
    I'll have a look, but as I recall it he doesn't have that problem.
    Good point :)
    I used a dustcleaner before the new hardware was installed.

    I think he has a BIOS problem, so I'll look into that. And after we've
    removed the covers of the case the problem is gone for now. So it seems to
    be BIOS and heat related.
     
    Per Nielsen, Dec 16, 2004
    #7
  8. Per Nielsen

    Per Nielsen Guest

    The fan is doing well :) I think it's BIOS and heatrelated, I've written
    more about it in my answer to _Vanguard_.
     
    Per Nielsen, Dec 16, 2004
    #8
  9. Per Nielsen

    Per Nielsen Guest

    I'm going to.
    We've removed the cover, and the problem seems to be gone for now. I think
    it's BIOS and heat related, more words about that in my answer to _Vanguard_
    :)
     
    Per Nielsen, Dec 16, 2004
    #9
  10. Per Nielsen

    _Vanguard_ Guest


    If the user modified the BIOS setting for temperature detection and
    protection, make sure they entered something like 75 degrees for the
    warning/alert/shutdown level - and that it is in Celsius instead of
    Fahrenheit (if there is a choice for the temperature scale).

    Otherwise, with the covers off the case and the system then works, my
    guess is an airflow problem, like fans battling each other, cables
    blocking air flow, or something blocking the air intake ports/areas.
     
    _Vanguard_, Dec 16, 2004
    #10
  11. Per Nielsen

    Per Nielsen Guest

    I'll look into that.
    And that I'll look into as well :)
     
    Per Nielsen, Dec 16, 2004
    #11
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