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Overclock Athlon XP 2500+

Discussion in 'AMD Overclocking' started by Patrick Flaherty, Dec 29, 2003.

  1. Hi,

    According to one of my colleagues (we're both programmers) the least-expensive
    Athlon XP that can clocked up to AMD's fastest (Athlon) speeds is the 2500+.
    And this is, according again to my colleague, because this is the slowest Athlon
    XP that's Barton-core.

    I plan to do this the same as he did, which is to use the handy overclocking
    features (BIOS?) built into the Asus A7N8X Deluxe.

    You can correct me if you don't agree with any of the above, but my question
    actually is the following: if I overclock the 2500+ (which runs I believe at 1.8
    GHz) up to the max of 2.2 GHz will the retail fan stand up to the strain or do I
    need to buy some more robust CPU fan (say, a Zalman)?

    thanx.

    pat
     
    Patrick Flaherty, Dec 29, 2003
    #1
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  2. Hi,
    the retail fan *should* be alright, it all depends on how much *extra* vCore
    your CPU needs to reach 2.2GHz. Some people have had good luck at
    overclocking their Barton's using default voltages (1.65Vcore) but others
    (myself included) have needed to *nudge* up our vCores to make the processor
    stable (mine is 1.1775vCore). It when you have to *bump* the vCore up that
    the CPU will begin to run hotter, and this in turn is when you need to get
    better cooling. I would say try it and see. As soon as you have rebooted
    after making changes, go straight in BIOS >> PC HEALTH page and look at the
    CPU temps, if it goes over 50°c when left *idling* in BIOS then I would
    think you would want to *tweak* your cooling set-up. My CPU is about 40°c
    when Idle and 48°c when under *Full Load*. I am using a CoolerMaster AERO 7
    LITE, which is an amazing *value* HSF (£12.00 UK), but if you wanna get the
    absolute lowest air cooling set-up then I would think you would need a
    *Thermalright* SLK series with a 92mm fan.

    Hope this spiel has helped. .
    --
    Wayne ][

    Barton (AQXEA) XP2500+ @ 2.2GHz (10x220) - 1.775vCore
    CoolerMaster Aero 7 Lite - 3,200rpm
    ABIT NF7-S (v2.0 - BIOS#14)
    512MB Dual TwiSTER PC3500 @ DDR440 1:1 (9,3,3,2.0 - 2.7v)
    Sapphire Atlantis 9800 - 3.3ns Samsung (325/290 Default)
    240GB (2x120GB) WD-SE SATA RAID-0 (NTFS - 16k Stripe)
    Antec SX630II Mini-Tower Case Inc 300w PSU
    2 x CoolerMaster 80mm Blue Neon Fans
    WinXP-PRO-SP1
    Cat 3.7 - DX9.0b
     
    Wayne Youngman, Dec 30, 2003
    #2
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  3. Patrick Flaherty

    LBJGH Guest

    The retail heatsink should be fine for you overclocking efforts, especially
    if you don't increase the Vcore beyond the stock voltage of 1.65v.

    The stock speed of the 2500+ is 11x166mhz and the 3200+ run at 11x200mhz.
    Almost all 2500+'s overclock to 3200+ speeds at stock voltage.

    Just watch you temps... anything under 55c is fine.
     
    LBJGH, Dec 30, 2003
    #3
  4. Patrick Flaherty

    dgk Guest

    Maybe almost all but not mine. On my A7N8X Rev2 Deluxe I am stable at
    200*11 (Prime95) only at 1.8 volts. I backed it down to 1.775 and am
    running at 212*10 - around 36C idle with a Zalman 7000AlCu. DDR
    voltage is 2.8 on Mushkin Lvl2 3500. But that's 2-2-2-11 memory
    settings so that should also count for something. I really need to do
    some benchmarks...
     
    dgk, Dec 30, 2003
    #4
  5. Patrick Flaherty

    mrdancer Guest

    7

    Keep in mind that the CPU usually runs *hotter* when idling in the BIOS than
    when idling in Windows OS.

    If the system will be under quite a bit of stress (wrt computing power), it
    would probably be best to stress-test the system with something like
    Prime95, then immediately reboot into the BIOS to check temps. Better yet
    would be to use a Windows-based utility that accurately monitors the CPU
    temp.

    If it's a typical office system that won't see much stress, I'd think you
    could easily go to 60C or so in the BIOS.
    HTH
     
    mrdancer, Dec 30, 2003
    #5
  6. Thanx all - very helpful.

    One more, doubtless ignorant, question. I assume (?) that one glues or epoxies
    or whatever the CPU coooling fan to the CPU. If that's the case and one
    determines one's fan to be underpowered, how do you get it back off so as to
    replace it?

    pat
     
    Patrick Flaherty, Dec 30, 2003
    #6

  7. Hi,

    No we don't *glue* our HSF (Heatsink fan) to the CPU. It has a spring-clip
    type system that forces quite a tight join between the CPU's upper surface
    and the bottom of the HSF. On most HSF's the actual Fan part can normally
    be unscrewed from the Heatsink, so you could in theory change fans while the
    heatsink was still attached.
     
    Wayne Youngman, Dec 30, 2003
    #7
  8. Patrick Flaherty

    Cheah TE Guest

    | the retail fan *should* be alright
    Do you know how good the original paste is ? Should I replace it with
    Arctic Silver I / III ?

    | Some people have had good luck at
    | overclocking their Barton's using default voltages
    Even @1.5v, mine can already oc to 180x11 .

    | if you wanna get the absolute lowest air cooling set-up
    Fit a 6cm fan onto the 462 pins behind socket A, 32% of remnant heat
    can be removed : °C/w will drop by 32%.
     
    Cheah TE, Dec 30, 2003
    #8
  9. Patrick Flaherty

    Amir Facade Guest

    got any pictures of that fan mod?
    or links to reviews?
     
    Amir Facade, Dec 31, 2003
    #9
  10. Patrick Flaherty

    Hank Guest

    Elaborate please.

    Hank
     
    Hank, Dec 31, 2003
    #10
  11. Patrick Flaherty

    BigBadger Guest

    So where did you get the 32% from???? You would be lucky if a fan on the
    back of the board dropped core temp by 1 Deg C.
    If it improved cooling by anything close to 32% don't you think cooling fan
    manufacturers would have caught on by now???...It would make water cooling
    obsolete overnight!!
     
    BigBadger, Jan 2, 2004
    #11
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