P4s8X-X and Asus video V9280 Voltage problems???

Discussion in 'Asus' started by Gorby, Aug 18, 2005.

  1. Gorby

    Gorby Guest

    Hi,
    I have recently upgraded the CPU on my Asus P4S8X-X to an Intel 3.06
    (Northwood) processor. I have 1 Gig of PC 2700 Ram in 2 slots.
    I am using an Asus V9280 video card (Nvidia Ti4200).
    I have recently (since upgrading the CPU) been getting voltage warnings
    from Asus Smart Doctor (monitoring the video card). Very recently the
    display drops from 1024x768 to something less than 640x480. I'm having
    to power off and restart to get things going again.

    Do you think the motherboard is delivering unstable power to the video
    card? if so, should I get a new motherboard. Same one again? or what
    would you recommend, so that I could reuse RAM, CPU, video, etc components?

    Any help appreciated.
    Gordon
     
    Gorby, Aug 18, 2005
    #1
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  2. Gorby

    BigJim Guest

    it is possible that the power supply is inadequate for the cpu and video
    thus causing the power problem with the video, it is just a guess.
     
    BigJim, Aug 18, 2005
    #2
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  3. Gorby

    Paul Guest

    AGP 2.0 spec (Vddq pins carry either 3.3 or 1.5V, depending on
    which spec the card meets)

    Vddq1.5 I/O Supply Voltage IMAX = 8.0A 1.425 1.575V (average currents <2A)
    Vddq3.3 I/O Supply Voltage IMAX = 8.0A 3.15 3.45V (average currents <2A)
    VCC3.3 3.3V Power Supply IMAX = 6.0A 3.15 3.45V
    VCC5 5V Power Supply IMAX = 2.0A 4.75 5.25V
    VCC12 12V Power Supply IMAX = 1.0A 11.4 12.6 V

    AGP 3.0 spec

    Vddq1.5 I/O Supply Voltage IMAX = 2.0A 1.425 1.575 V (1.0 amp average VDDQ)
    VCC3.3 3.3V Power Supply IMAX = 6.0A 3.15 3.45 V
    3.3VAUX 3.3V Aux IMAX = 0.375A 3.15 3.45 V
    VCC5 5V Power Supply IMAX = 2.0A 4.75 5.25 V
    VCC12 12V Power Supply IMAX = 1.0A 11.4 12.6 V

    First off, you should have mentioned which voltage was out of
    spec in Smart Doctor, and by how much. Another thing you could
    do, is fire up Asus Probe and get a readout of the 3.3V, 5V, and
    12V that come from the PSU.

    Your new processor draws more current from +12V. On the old
    power supplies, the entire primary side moves up and down, in
    response to the load. The output voltages are established by
    the turns ratio of the multiple secondary windings on the
    output transformer. What this would normally mean, is if you
    tug on +12V (more load), the voltage on +12V will fall, but
    you will also get to see the +3.3V and the +5V rise. This is
    a very handy trend, because when someone reports a problem in
    this group, you can use the voltage trends to identify which
    output on the ATX PSU has suddenly gotten an extra load.

    To fix a voltage problem, there are several possible problems
    and fixes:

    1) The PSU could be inadequate for the current load being placed
    on it. I recommend [email protected] minimum for a P4 system with just
    the basic components. There are web sites that allow a more
    detailed calculation (http://takaman.jp/D/?english but correct
    the overcurrent for disk drives, as the numbers shown are at
    spinup. Your disk manufacturer has the exact numbers, or use
    [email protected] and [email protected] for a modern, idling disk drive).

    2) The PSU could be sick. Wavering voltages, or complaints
    from Asus Probe about more than +/- 5% variation from
    normal might be your first clue. You might even get a burning
    smell just before it fails.

    3) The ATX 20 pin power connector could be making bad contact
    with the motherboard. There was one Asus motherboard, where
    a bad batch of connectors did not make good contact with any
    ATX supply that was plugged in. The ATX 20 pin should be pushed
    into place, until the latch engages. The latch is there to make
    sure it doesn't work itself loose. If the ATX 20 pin is allowed
    to work loose, the pins heat up due to the partial contact,
    they oxidize, and are permanently crippled. A low motherboard
    power reading at this point, requires connector replacement to
    permanently fix the problem. No amount of bandaid solutions will
    work for more than a short time.

    4) A partial short could be developing within the motherboard PCB.
    This is uncommon. Also, a standoff in the wrong place, could
    touch a copper power track on the bottom of the motherboard.
    The "solder blob" problem on the P4C800 was another example
    of a partial short affecting operation. This only affected
    the initial production run.

    So, get out Asus Probe or MBM5 and check the main voltages. With
    the computer unplugged, pull the 20 pin connector and reseat it.
    Check the plastic for signs of heat or melting. Make sure the latch
    is fully seated. Post back what you find when reading both the
    Smart Doctor screen and Asus Probe at the same time.

    With some luck, all this will take is a power supply with a few
    more amps on +12V.

    Paul
     
    Paul, Aug 18, 2005
    #3
  4. Gorby

    DaveW Guest

    It sounds like your power supply unit is dying. Try replacing it.
     
    DaveW, Aug 18, 2005
    #4
  5. Gorby

    Gorby Guest

    I haven't had any errors today. However here are my current PC probe and
    Smart Doctor readings:
    PC Probe:
    12 Volt = 12.2 +- .04 (does fluctuate)
    5 volt = 5.134 (constant)
    3.3 volt= 3.14 +- .02 (fluctuates a little bit only)
    Vcore = 1.616 (constant)

    The video card is an AGP 3 card.
    Smart Doctor:
    Vcc = 3.04 v
    Vcore = 1.68 v
    AGP = 1.50 v

    From memory I think the error was Vcc going up to (maybe even over) 4
    volts.

    I'm going out today, anyway, and getting a new 500w PSU.

    cheers
    Gordon
     
    Gorby, Aug 19, 2005
    #5
  6. Gorby

    Paul Guest

    So, 3.3V seems lower than normal, and +5 and +12V are higher than
    normal. Which means the power supply feels there is a fair load
    on 3.3V.

    What matters on your new supply, is not the total watts (500W), but
    how each output works. For example, the Antec Truepower supplies
    have a rating on each output, that if all outputs were loaded to
    their maximum, the total power would be greater than the power
    supply rating. What that means, is if one supply output is heavily
    loaded, it gets the current it needs, while the other two outputs
    will most likely be loaded to well less than their maximum. For
    many computers, the power being consumed is 200W while gaming, which
    means on a 500W supply, it is only 40% loaded in an aggregate
    sense. With the Truepower, one output can draw a lot of current
    if needed, and the power supply works well.

    One place where this is important, is if you have an Asus
    S462 AMD motherboard in your home, and a second system based on
    the P4. The first system will draw a lot of current (16A+)
    from +5V, while the second will use up to 15A from +12V. In
    both cases, the other outputs will not be loaded to their
    maximums. With a supply like the Truepower, it means you can
    buy the one power supply, and use it in either computer.

    For many cheaper supplies, only one output has lots of current,
    and the other two major outputs are less adequate. For example,
    you might find a supply with [email protected] and [email protected] Such a supply
    would fit an Asus s462 Athlon motherboard quite nicely, but
    if this supply was plugged into a P4 board, it would shut off.

    Sometimes, the comments in a power supply review can help
    form an opinion of whether a supply will be suited to your own
    situation. For example, two independent reviewers found
    the Seasonic S12 had low 3.3V output voltage, and one
    reviewer recommended only loading the supply to 50% of is
    rated 3.3V output. As you seem to be having trouble with
    3.3V, buying one of these might be a mistake. Now, the funny
    thing is, in this Tomshardware review, instead of just loading
    to the 200W level, they load all outputs to their rated max,
    and the supply doesn't do that badly. All outputs are a
    bit low, but that is to be expected at 600 watts. This supply
    is 80% efficient, which makes a big difference to the
    heat generated internal to the supply itself. It is too bad
    Tom did not put more data in the article summary (voltage
    versus % loading graph, for example).

    http://www.tomshardware.com/howto/200507111/stresstest-17.html

    There is a thread here, about PSU brand names, which may
    help your selection process.

    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=56231

    Good luck in your hunt for a supply.

    Paul
     
    Paul, Aug 19, 2005
    #6
  7. Gorby

    Gorby Guest

    Thanks for that! I've ended up getting a fairly cheap($40 Aus) "Usicase"
    PSU.
    The voltages look better.
    PC Probe:
    12 Volt = 12.096 (fairly constant)
    5 Volt = 5.05 (constant)
    3.3 V = 3.312 (constant)
    Vcore = 1.6 (constant)

    Smart Doc:
    Vcc = 3.23
    Vcore = 1.68
    AGP = 1.52.

    I'll wait now to see if any problems continue.

    THanks!
     
    Gorby, Aug 19, 2005
    #7
  8. Gorby

    Gorby Guest

    I have had the problem return of the screen resolution changing to
    something less than 640x480, without any obvious hardware problem. I
    remembered that I also upgraded the nVidia drivers to the latest
    (77.77). I have now reverted to the previous safe drivers (71.89). I
    will transfer to the nVidia newsgroup.
    cheers and thanks
    Gordon
     
    Gorby, Aug 19, 2005
    #8
  9. Gorby

    Paul Guest

    Yup. Play the driver game. Not every driver is a winner, so
    rollback to the one that previously was working for you.

    Paul
     
    Paul, Aug 19, 2005
    #9
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