Problem w/ BIOSTAR TForce 6100/NF 410, Socket 754

Discussion in 'Biostar' started by N. Zero, Jul 15, 2009.

  1. N. Zero

    N. Zero Guest

    I may have had a virus, but now the problem has really started... my
    machine was being very sluggish so I rebooted and then I couldn't get
    past the windows XP start-up screen with the scrolling blue bar near
    the lower center. So, stupidly, I restarted again and went into the
    bios and reset it to the default. Now I can't see anything. I get
    one beep and the keyboard flashes when I turn it on now but the screen
    stays blank. I think the connections are all good -- I've got
    everything plugged in -- but I can't even see a bios screen or
    anything now! I'm not the most savvy comp user and I don't have the
    manual. Even if I did it might be Greek to me. Does anyone recognize
    this problem and can they explain or link me to a few possible
    solutions? Is there something I need to reset manually on the
    motherboard? It's my primary machine and I am at a real loss right
    N. Zero, Jul 15, 2009
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  2. N. Zero

    Paul Guest

    (Manual) 6100_189_manual.exe

    The motherboard has four diagnostic LEDs on the surface. See page 20
    or so. Check to see if a code is showing. LED D1 and LED D2, if both
    are ON, that means NORMAL or no problem found.

    Check that reset switch is not jammed in the ON position. Motherboard
    switches are momentary contacts. There may be switches on the motherboard
    surface, as well as computer case switches. A reset switch jammed in
    the ON position, prevents a motherboard from starting. Either the
    switch on the case could do it, or the switch on the motherboard
    could do it.

    If you've been clearing the CMOS, you may have not followed the
    procedure properly. JCMOS1 is in the lower right corner of the
    board. Clearing CMOS should only be done with the AC power cord
    unplugged, to guarantee there is no +5VSB present on the motherboard.
    Failure to do so, can result in burned ORing diodes, feeding the
    CMOS well on the chipset. That can prevent startup too.

    When you're finished clearing the CMOS (with the AC power off), check
    that the jumper is in position 1-2, as shown in the manual on PDF page 18.

    Check that the CMOS battery is in place. If it isn't, unplug the
    computer and put it back. It should only fit one way, with the
    (+) terminal on top. If you have a multimeter, you can verify it is
    3.0V or so. If the voltage is below 2.4V, it is time to change it.

    I'm not sure the manual is showing all the BIOS screens, so there
    could be some other function to look at. You probably know your
    own BIOS better than I do. Of course, if you cannot see the screen,
    it may be pretty hard to navigate anywhere in any case.

    Do you have other hardware installed in the computer ? Do you have
    a video card plugged in ? Give an inventory, just in case there is
    some possibility I missed.

    Paul, Jul 15, 2009
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  3. N. Zero

    N. Zero Guest

    Thank you so much. My machine is still down but it's nice to think I
    may be able to start making progress on it's recovery.

    I haven't tinkered with any of the hardware yet and the failure
    occurred strictly through software and Bios action. I am not terribly
    experienced with resetting things like CMOS but I will follow your
    instructions via the manual and get a friend to help. I am just a
    little surprised that these things would reset/revert/change
    themselves without manual effort from the user? I've only done
    anything with a mouse so far so I can't see how the old set-up on the
    motherboard would need to be changed?

    I see two sets of LEDS on the motherboard. One is a group of 4 red
    lights and the other below that is one blue light.
    The video card is standard on-board. No other exceptional hardware
    N. Zero, Jul 15, 2009
  4. N. Zero

    Paul Guest

    At this point, I would recommend reading the manual, with respect
    to those four LEDs. Two of the LEDs have a diagnostic code.
    Of the four possible values of the two LEDs, one is a "good"
    value, while the other three values indicate there is trouble.

    You can try the CMOS clearing procedure, if you haven't done
    it already. It should restore the output to the integrated
    graphics chip and the connector on the back of the computer.
    Make sure the jumper is back in the "inactive" position (1-2 ?),
    before connecting the power cord to the wall again. The procedure in
    the manual is pretty clear about what to do.

    It could be, that the sluggishness you were seeing before all
    this happened, was actually caused by the built-in graphics
    failing. So that is another possibility. If none of your
    attempts to revive it are working, that might be the problem.
    If the motherboard has any warranty left on it, that might be
    your recourse. To send it back and have them install another
    Northbridge. Usually there is a procedure where you request an
    RMA, and you write the RMA number on the outside of the package
    before sending it to the motherboard manufacturer. The
    shipping/receiving door at large companies, won't accept
    a parcel unless there is a valid RMA number printed on it.
    An RMA number means they're expecting it, and know what
    the parcel is all about.

    There is another thing you can try. It is also possible a
    stick of RAM has failed. If memory locations below 640K
    are bad, the BIOS may not be able to do enough testing, to
    give a beep error (or update that diagnostic LED display).
    I have a motherboard here that failed that way, it wouldn't
    beep when the RAM died.

    If you have two sticks of RAM in the motherboard, test them one
    at a time. It isn't likely two would die at the same time.

    When changing the RAM, make sure all the power is off. This
    is another case, where I want the computer unplugged, to
    prevent damage to any RAM sticks. There is "standby" voltage
    in the RAM socket, as long as the power supply is switched
    ON at the back.

    Yet another test, is to not plug any RAM sticks in, then observe
    the motherboard response. Do those diagnostic LEDs have
    a code for "RAM failure" ? If so, I'd expect to see the
    two LEDs show the proper code. Sometimes, removing all
    RAM, attempting to start up, then shutdown, power off,
    and install some RAM, power up again, is enough to revive
    some motherboards. Some of them seem to "reset" something,
    if no RAM is present. I haven't a clue why that works, but
    it is another test case to try. The "no RAM" test case,
    followed by "installed some RAM" test case.

    Paul, Jul 15, 2009
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