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Running 230V fans at 115V, any long term problems?

Discussion in 'Overclocking' started by Ken Maltby, Oct 5, 2003.

  1. Ken Maltby

    Ken Maltby Guest

    I picked up an ~six foot tall 19" rack enclosure with
    what looks like process control amp backboard boxs
    (3ea) and some power distro pannels; all for $25.

    On top of the enclosure there were two each:
    10" 230V Comair-Rotron "Caravel" fans.

    On 115V they are totaly silent but still moving a
    lot of air. I installed one ~2.5" over a heater core
    mounted in a modified 6Gal plastic pickle bucket.
    And it is working great in my "external" watercooling
    system. (In fact it works so well that it would over
    power my chiller setup and I removed the chiller.)

    Each of the control amp boxs had three 5"square
    Nidec-Torin TA500 230V fans. These also run
    silently on 115V and move a fair amount of air.
    (not sure what pressure they well produce tho.)

    These are all industral quality, very sturdy looking.

    So, could someone hazard a guess as to the
    long term effect of running these fans on 115V?

    Thanks,
    Ken
     
    Ken Maltby, Oct 5, 2003
    #1
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  2. Ken Maltby

    taff Guest

    Yep, the long term effect should be that they last longer.
    There should be no problems.

    Taff....



    www.sounds-pa.com | www.thecomputerworkshop.com
     
    taff, Oct 5, 2003
    #2
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  3. Ken Maltby

    Ken Maltby Guest

    Thanks again for your response. That is what I was hoping to hear.

    Luck;
    Ken
     
    Ken Maltby, Oct 5, 2003
    #3
  4. Technically speaking those fans are not guaranteed to even start at 115
    VAC. Minimum operating is about 185 or so (I had problems downloading the
    PDFs so I couldn't get the exact specs and am going by general AC fan
    characteristics). If they run it's okay but you should be aware that some
    time they might not (age, lubrication, dirt, etc. not to mention that 115
    is nominal and can be even lower) and then you've got a locked rotor
    situation where the current will shoot up (no back EMF from rotation).
    They've probably got locked rotor current protection though so they
    shouldn't do something drastic like catch fire.

    Look them up on the manufacturer's web site and see what the exact specs are.
     
    David Maynard, Oct 6, 2003
    #4
  5. Ken Maltby

    Ken Maltby Guest

    And this is more like what I expected to hear. The manufacturer's spec
    are for them operating at 230V, there seems to be no mention of out of
    spec issues, on their sites.

    I guess I'll just enjoy the silence, unless or untill it becomes "dead
    silence".

    I have almost 4 gals of reservoir this should provide a large enough delay
    between overheating alarm and actual damage to my system.

    Live'n on the wild side;
    Ken
     
    Ken Maltby, Oct 6, 2003
    #5
  6. Yeah. With the reservoir you should have plenty of warning time so its not
    like it'll go into melt-down before there's a problem indication.
     
    David Maynard, Oct 6, 2003
    #6
  7. Ken Maltby

    Ken Maltby Guest

    I was able to scroung up a step-down transformer and wired it backwards
    so I run 115V to the secondary and pull 220V off the primary. Or I made
    the secondary the primary and the primary the secondary, Whatever - I got
    220V and the transformer runs cool and quiet.

    I thought these fans moved a good amount of air when I was running them
    on 115V - on 220V I am going to have to start tacking things down. The
    increase in noise is considerable but not as bad as I would have expected.
    The 10" "Caravel" might be acceptable, noise wise, on 220V; but the 5"
    Nidec-Torin TA500s could be distracting. (No worrys about pressure
    anymore though - one of these babies could turn a full tower into a wind
    tunnel.)

    Luck;
    Ken
     
    Ken Maltby, Oct 7, 2003
    #7
  8. Super and, Yeah, transformers work both ways.
    LOL. Yeah. They DO move some air.
    You could try some case bottom 'blow holes' and make a hover craft out of
    it <g>.

    Scrounge up a variac transformer and you'll have speed control (for the
    noisy boys). 3 amp job for 40 bucks
    http://www.action-electronics.com/variac.htm They show up on ebay too but
    the ones I saw were larger and more expensive. Oh, these folks have used
    ones http://www.surplussales.com/Variacs/Variacs-2.html (2.25 amp at 34 bucks)

    Btw, standard light dimmers can't handle the inductive load and while one
    might try making their own snubber circuit they're prone to noise
    emissions. A variac is a direct, clean, and rugged solution.
     
    David Maynard, Oct 7, 2003
    #8
  9. Ken Maltby

    Ken Maltby Guest

    Hmm... the variacs you point out are all 115V input and ~ 0-120V output,
    am I missing something. Is there a way to make them provide 120-240V.
    Even something like 160V could provide some more reliability/life, and
    still be relitively quiet.

    I did see a 1A 0-240V for $35 and could use that. 2.25A would be much
    more useful though.

    Great sites, by the way. Especialy liked the photos of items at Action
    Electronics.


    Thanks again;
    Ken
     
    Ken Maltby, Oct 8, 2003
    #9
  10. Variacs are typically 0 to around 110%, or so, of the nominal line voltage
    they are designed to operate on.
    An amp at 240 VAC is 240 watts. How many fans you running that you need
    more than 240 watts?

    You said you had worked out a 110 to 220 step-up transformer so you could
    use either a 110 VAC Variac on the input or a 220 VAC Variac on the output
    but since the normal line voltage is 110 VAC I figured having a 110 VAC
    Variac was more generically useful than a 220 VAC one.
     
    David Maynard, Oct 8, 2003
    #10
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