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Discussion in 'AMD Thunderbird' started by RF, Jan 12, 2006.

  1. RF

    RF Guest

    Hello,

    It appears that my Epox 8RDA+ has issues with "bad caps" on thos little
    transistors near the cpu.
    I am looking to get another board. My question is using the 754 socket, (a
    friend gave me an sempron AMD 64 XP2800+), what board would you recommend? I
    also have 2 sticks of kingston hyper X 2700, (333), that I wish to use as
    well. I'm not too familiar with the AMD 64 platform, and I don't know if my
    memory would work with it.

    Do you have any advice?

    Thanks.

    RF
     
    RF, Jan 12, 2006
    #1
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  2. RF

    VWWall Guest

    I've been using a MSI K8MM-ILSR which has socket 754 with on-board
    graphics, LAN, 6 channel audio and Firewire. I'm using DD400 memory, so
    am not sure about the 333. The graphics shares 64M of the RAM, and is
    fine for anything but fast games. I run WinXPx64 with no problems
    except for finding drivers. All in all it's a good board for the price.
    It runs WinXP 32bit, which I dual boot, as well as any CPU of its speed.
     
    VWWall, Jan 12, 2006
    #2
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  3. RF

    Wes Newell Guest

    Your ram will work. As for a board, don't know what you want. About any
    would work ok if you don't plan on overclocking much. ASRock K8Ugrade-NF3
    would be a good cheap choice.
     
    Wes Newell, Jan 13, 2006
    #3
  4. Too bad about those multi-layer boards requiring professional
    soldering and desoldering gear...

    Tom
     
    Tom MacIntyre, Jan 13, 2006
    #4
  5. RF

    kony Guest


    Nonsense.

    Have you tried it? If so and you failed, I suggest a bit
    more practice as it's relatively easy to replace a few caps
    with a moderately high-wattage pencil iron, no special tools
    or desoldering gear at all. Many surface mount parts aren't
    that bad either if one has experience soldering small parts.
     
    kony, Jan 13, 2006
    #5
  6. RF

    John O Guest

    Do you have any advice?
    I did a lot of that sort of thing at Heathkit, where we went through pounds
    of solder each week. The key is a big, hot iron. The board can handle a good
    bit of heat for a short time, and a 75W iron does less damage than a
    wimpy-ass 25w iron. Make sure the tip is clean and tinned well. Then, you
    need one of those bulb solder suckers to clean the hole.

    With most of those caps, you can heat both leads at the same time, then
    whack the board on the table. The cap will fly out, and cleaning the hole is
    easy. Done it a million.........no, a BILLION times. ;-)

    -John O
     
    John O, Jan 13, 2006
    #6
  7. I worked in consumer electronics repair for a number of years, quite
    successfully. My soldering skills were above average. A Soldapult
    sucker just can't cut it.

    Tom
     
    Tom MacIntyre, Jan 13, 2006
    #7
  8. Not true; the electrolytic caps, which are the problem, can be dealt
    with using an old fashioned soldering iron. They are still "thru-hole"
    mount.
     
    Barry Watzman, Jan 13, 2006
    #8
  9. RF

    kony Guest

    Agreed, though I use 45W. 30W "might" work with a stubby
    enough tip. A solder sucker does well but in a pinch one
    can just use a pick or needle to ream out the hole while
    reheating it, or even a circuit board drill bit to drill a
    hole.

    I'd be careful about wacking boards, lots of surface mount
    parts these days and the board is bound to flex some.

    I usually wack the boards only if I'm cannibalizing one,
    taking a pencil torch to the back to get several things off
    at once.
     
    kony, Jan 13, 2006
    #9
  10. RF

    kony Guest


    Well I've replaced caps on far too many boards to count, if
    all one has is a 30+W iron w/good tip and a roll of solder,
    it can be done... let alone with more equipment. Depending
    on how experienced the person is, it might not look as good
    but a little extra flux can help too.
     
    kony, Jan 13, 2006
    #10
  11. RF

    Wes Newell Guest

    I can see it now. Some ignorant soul is going to ruin their board with a
    drill. I wouldn't have mentioned a drill. Those that know, know. Those
    that don't will screw it up. So all you OP out there, don't use a drill
    unless you know how a multilayer pcb is made and the purpose of the feed
    holes.
     
    Wes Newell, Jan 13, 2006
    #11
  12. RF

    Wes Newell Guest

    Agreed. It's a simple task for anyone with a little soldering experience.
    And not that hard for one that has none. Small surface mount components is
    a different story, but SM caps isn't that hard even with just a small
    pencil iron.
     
    Wes Newell, Jan 13, 2006
    #12
  13. RF

    kony Guest


    ;-)

    Maybe, but then again I can't guarantee they wouldn't ruin
    it with a soldering iron or ESD or some other way... and
    there's a few general presumptions, like that most wouldn't
    have the right sized bits if they weren't already into
    circuit board work... not like you can go to the local
    hardware store and pick up a 0.021" bit, sadly the last
    hardware store I was in had nothing smaller than 1\16"
     
    kony, Jan 14, 2006
    #13
  14. RF

    RF Guest

    Well thanks for all of the good info, guys!
    I have narrowed my mobo search down to an ecs 760gx-m or an msi k8mm-v. Both
    boards appear to suit my needs. I really appreciate all of your time.

    RF
     
    RF, Jan 14, 2006
    #14
  15. I stand corrected, if so many have been successful at it...that's what
    I get for posting based on outdated information, I suppose. :)

    Tom
     
    Tom MacIntyre, Jan 14, 2006
    #15
  16. RF

    RF Guest

    Guys,
    It's been almost 4 years since I have built a pc, and now I am finding out
    about all kinds of ancillary concerns. I want to use my AMD Sempron 2800+,
    my 1 GB Kingston hyperX 2700 ddr ram, a Radian 128 9000 pro, and a 4 yr old
    cheftech box w/ a 450 Watt power supply, and all I need is a mobo to fit. I
    had it narrowed down to a couple but now I find that I have to watch out for
    things like agp slots, axt or micro axt, and low voltage issues with the
    semprons on some of these boards.
    But I will say this, it is a fun way to pass time.

    RF
     
    RF, Jan 15, 2006
    #16
  17. RF

    Wes Newell Guest

    You're missing the most important part. Make sure the board can do at
    least 266MHz FSB, and has a locked PCI/AGP speed if you plan on getting
    anywhere close to what that cpu can be clocked to. Hopefully that is a
    socket 754 Sempron, and not a socket A. If it's a socket A, forget it. If
    you already have a socket A Sempron, the same thing applies though. Get a
    board that will do at least 200MHz FSB with a locked PCI/AGP bus.
     
    Wes Newell, Jan 15, 2006
    #17
  18. RF

    RF Guest

    Thanks guy, most boards that I am looking at are 800 FSB. (It is a socket
    754). Quite a few out ther for 50 - 60 dollars.

    RF
     
    RF, Jan 16, 2006
    #18
  19. RF

    Wes Newell Guest

    That's the HT link speed, not the clockspeed which the cpu uses with thr
    multiplier to determine core speed. All 754/939/940 cpu's default to
    200MHz. You need this to go really high on the board you get.
     
    Wes Newell, Jan 16, 2006
    #19
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