!!WARNING !! Intel Core 2 Duo Stock Heatsinks !! WARNING!!

Discussion in 'Asus' started by It's Not Me, Sep 24, 2006.

  1. It's Not Me

    It's Not Me Guest

    This may be known issue to some, but here it is any way. Check your
    heat sink for flatness across copper mating surface before installing!
    I went through3 days or frustration trying to figure out my high
    temperatures problem. I was getting upper 30's idle, and with load
    going to astronomical 70's on a stock e6400. I can only hope chip
    wasn't hurt. I finally ran across an article googling where some
    others had bad intel factory heat sinks. No problem now as I used the
    heat sink off my other e6300. I am now having to buy an aftermarket
    heat sink to fix intels F-UP.
     
    It's Not Me, Sep 24, 2006
    #1
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  2. It's Not Me

    Paul Guest

    I was reading yesterday, that non-flat heatsinks is also a
    problem with aftermarket heatsinks. I recommend the "squash test".
    Apply half-a-rice-grain sized dot of thermal paste to the
    top of the processor. Do a test install of the heatsink.
    Check the spreading pattern of the thermal paste, as it is
    squashed by the assembly. The pattern may help you determine
    how the two surfaces mate.

    Up to a point, less thermal paste is better. Thermal paste is
    intended to fill small gaps, and a tiny film of paste is
    more effective than an air gap. But large gobs of thermal
    paste are an insulator, so being overly generous with the
    paste is also not a good thing.

    Paul
     
    Paul, Sep 24, 2006
    #2
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  3. It's Not Me

    fondue Guest

    If the PC is still running the CPU can handle it, signs of overheating are
    when the PC freezes.

    Short of starting the PC without a heatsink your not likely to damage the
    proc under your circumstance, even then intel had throttling which would
    protect the CPU, but I don't know if they still use it.
    ..

    Have you tried approaching Intel for a replacement heatsink? Maybe you could
    just lap it to make it flat?
     
    fondue, Sep 25, 2006
    #3
  4. It's Not Me

    It's Not Me Guest

    Too lazy too go through the hassle of rma with intel, already replaced
    the heat sink now anyway. All is good now gotta just love these core 2
    processors. I just hope somebody else with unknown heat sink problems
    reads this post and it helps them. It just plain freaked me out as I
    have gone thought dozens of heat sinks from the days of Intel 486 to
    present, and this is the first I have ever had with major flatness
    issues.
    I guess I should mention that my heat sink was concave to the extreme,
    I estimate in the range of 0.015 inch gap in middle of heat sink when
    checked with a straight edge.
     
    It's Not Me, Sep 25, 2006
    #4
  5. It's Not Me

    Gerry_uk Guest

    Yes, I highly recommend this too. The patterns you will see are interesting.
     
    Gerry_uk, Sep 25, 2006
    #5
  6. It's Not Me

    Ron Krebs Guest

    While we're on the topic of stock heatsinks, which gets hotter during normal
    use, the Northbridge or Southbridge? Then, considering the stock heatsinks
    on the P5WDH, would it be worthwhile to replace the NB sink with a good
    aftermarket HS like Zalman's NB HS? It got very good reviews.

    Ron
     
    Ron Krebs, Sep 25, 2006
    #6
  7. It's Not Me

    Paul Guest

    For Intel chipsets, you can look up power numbers in some of Intel's
    accompanying documentation. For other companies, you may have to
    rely on comments from other users, as to which runs hotter. If I
    had to guess and a completely unknown motherboard, I'd say the
    Northbridge stands a chance of running hotter.

    Note that some unified chipsets (just one chip does both the
    Northbridge and Southbridge function) run very hot. They could
    be dissipating on the order of 20W. Of course, getting actual
    datasheet numbers for these is impossible. In cases like that,
    you may want to include a fan on the replacement heatsink.

    The way you work this out, is use the thermal resistance of
    the heatsink you are buying, and use the power rating of the
    chip, to work out the temperature rise above the ambient inside
    the computer case.

    This is some sample data from the Aavid catalog for 3 heatsinks:

    Length Width Height still with
    mm mm mm air fan
    200LFM

    35x35 374624B60024 35.00 35.00 10.00 23.40 7.55 Black anodize
    35x35 374724B60024 35.00 35.00 18.00 15.30 5.15 Black anodize
    35x35 374824B60024 35.00 35.00 25.00 12.00 4.27 Black anodize

    A 35x35x25 heatsink is a bit smaller than a Zalman. The still
    air theta is 12 degrees C per watt. When 200 linear feet per minute
    is blowing over the heatsink, the performance improves to
    4.27 degrees C per watt.

    Say the chip you are cooling, dissipates 10W. Say the room temperature
    is 25C and the computer case air temperature is 35C. If you had
    the above sample heatsink with a fan in place, the chip temp becomes
    35C + (10W * 4.27C/W) or 77.7C. The Northbridge on my computer is
    rated for 99C max, so that would at least avoid going over the max
    temperature. But you can see, if you removed the fan, it becomes
    35C + (10W * 12C/W) or 155C. That would cause the computer to crash,
    at the very least.

    I included that example, not because I am recommending you attempt
    to gather enough info to do that kind of arithmetic, but to at
    least demonstrate that removing the fan from a heatsink is not
    always a wise idea.

    If you want a good chipset cooler, this one is rated at 1.25C/W,
    which is exceptionally good. The problem with a unit like this,
    is it may bump into your video card. Before doing any mods,
    think carefully in three dimensions, as to whether your mod
    will bump into something inside the computer. Some of these
    devices also mount rotated in the x-y plane, due to the min/max
    locations of the screw holes on the mounting arms, so don't
    assume that they will align square with the top of the chip.

    http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcx159-CU.asp

    Of course, don't let me spoil your fun :)

    Paul
     
    Paul, Sep 26, 2006
    #7
  8. It's Not Me

    Jerry Guest

    Hell that is a lot, if yours is typical there has to be a serious
    design problem here!...
     
    Jerry, Sep 26, 2006
    #8
  9. I don't think it's "typical", but there may have been a run of bad
    heatsinks ... it may be typical of the bad ones.
     
    Barry Watzman, Sep 26, 2006
    #9
  10. It's Not Me

    M.A.Elstrom Guest

    Only comment I can make on this thread is that the one that came with
    my E6700 had the factory thermal paste inconsistently applied, leaving
    open voids. I stripped it and applied Artic Siler 5. The heatsink
    base was, however, dead flat.

    Maelstrom
     
    M.A.Elstrom, Dec 17, 2006
    #10
  11. It's Not Me

    panda109

    Joined:
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    similar problems...

    i recently acquired a core 2 duo chip and decided to build a system.

    I got an Intel DG965RY motherboard and a stock Intel heatsink.
    (link: http://enuinc.com/fan-775-int-001.html)
    as you can see in the picture the heatsink comes with small gray square of heatsink compound already applied, mine came with only a few small lines of compound unevenly applied. From the start i have had troubles with overheating. I have removed the heatsink and applied my own heatsink compound, it still seems to overheat. I am starting to think that the surface is not entirely flat, how would check to make sure it is?
     
    panda109, Jun 21, 2007
    #11
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